This season of Paris Fashion Week Men’s Fall/Winter 2025 (Instagram), designers brought bold reimaginings of heritage, powerful storytelling, and fresh explorations of timeless themes to the runway. From cinematic homages to Hollywood and contemporary twists on archival workwear to thought-provoking statements on global resilience, the collections offered creativity and craftsmanship. As Paris Fashion Week unfolded, it became clear that menswear is embracing a new era—one that blends history with the future. Here are some of our highlights:
Dior: Reimagining Classic Elegance
The show on everyone’s lips – the Kim Jones’ Fall/Winter 2025 collection – brought a poetic reimagining of the house’s archival codes. Set within a minimalist, grey fortress, the show reflected the season’s theme of metamorphosis, as Jones reinterpreted Christian Dior’s iconic “H Line” with graphic, angular silhouettes for modern menswear. Drawing from both the 18th and 19th centuries, the collection merged extravagant history with clean, timeless lines, evoking both ethereal elegance and utilitarian sophistication. Key moments included embroidery inspired by Dior’s 1948 “Pondichéry” collection, reimagined for the finale’s stunning pink robe. This collection blends Dior’s heritage with Jones’ contemporary vision, creating a dialogue between past and present.
Lanvin: Peter Copping’s Polished Debut
Peter Copping’s inaugural collection for Lanvin marks a confident revival of the house’s storied elegance, seamlessly blending menswear and womenswear. Drawing from Jeanne Lanvin’s 1920s Art Deco aesthetic, the collection features gold-on-black embroidered silks, rich velvets, and dramatic off-the-shoulder gowns. Menswear highlights include sophisticated tailoring, pointed brogues, and Balenciaga-influenced oversized coats and leather trenches. With its balance of heritage and modernity, the collection breathes new life into Lanvin’s identity. Copping’s debut is a triumph, setting a promising tone for the brand’s return to form.
AMIRI: A Cinematic Love Letter to Los Angeles
For Autumn-Winter 2025, Mike Amiri transformed the runway into Club AMIRI, a shimmering ode to Hollywood’s glamour and Los Angeles’ eclectic spirit. The collection, a celebration of the city’s dream-like allure, paired menswear and womenswear on a shared stage, blurring lines with a modern, gender-fluid attitude. Slick tailoring, intricate crystal embellishments, and a muted, after-dark palette of merlot, mint, and golden espresso captured the nostalgia of late ‘60s and early ‘70s Los Angeles while offering a fresh perspective on luxury. Inspired by iconic Hollywood interiors like the Formosa Café, rich jacquards and embroideries embodied the multicultural essence of the West Coast. From gilded roses to Art Deco-inspired eyewear, every detail invited the audience into Amiri’s cinematic vision—a love letter to a city of dreams.
Paul Smith: Through the Lens of Style
Paul Smith pays homage to 20th-century photography icons, reimagining their personal style with bold tailoring and unexpected textures. A rich, inky palette inspired by Saul Leiter’s work complements exaggerated houndstooth patterns and patchwork details, blending tradition with irreverence. The collection’s standout motif, ‘Field Flower,’ is a nod to Sir Paul’s father, Harold B. Smith, whose eye for detail shaped the designer’s outlook. Debuting in Paris, the collection also unveils Paul Smith Loves Barbour, a playful reinterpretation of British country classics.
Louis Vuitton: Pharrell Williams and NIGO Dream the Future
Drawing from NIGO’s archive of workwear and Pharrell’s stylistic expression, the collection merges Japanese craftsmanship with Louis Vuitton’s savoir-faire. Highlights include tailored silhouettes reimagined with sakura-inspired motifs, bold Damier prints, and intricate boro-style jacquards. Accessories, from Damier “Phriendship” bags to hand-crafted jewelry, embody their shared vision, while footwear revisits early 2000s streetwear aesthetics with modern finesse. Set against a Wonderwall-designed stage at the Louvre, the show brought together artistry, nostalgia, and innovation in a celebration of friendship and the future.
AURALEE FW25: Minimalism Elevated
AURALEE’s collection rethinks Japanese minimalism with a refined and functional approach to everyday dressing. Designer Ryota Iwai merges vintage elements with contemporary styling, showcasing pieces that transition seamlessly between urban life and leisure. Standout looks include lamb leather bomber jackets layered under double-breasted cashmere coats, while luxe fabrics like cashmere moleskin and merino mouton fur add understated sophistication. Knitwear takes centre stage, ranging from cardigans to pullovers, embodying effortless versatility. The collection also debuts AURALEE’s latest New Balance T500s in “Brown” and “Lime Green,” subtle complements to its timeless aesthetic.
COMME des GARÇONS HOMME PLUS: “To Hell With War”
Rei Kawakubo delivered a bold statement at Paris Fashion Week with the COMME des GARÇONS HOMME PLUS Fall/Winter 2025 collection, subverting traditional military uniforms with avant-garde creativity. Classic field jackets, officer’s coats, and utilitarian trousers in muted military tones were reimagined with unexpected details like brass buttons, colour-blocked paneling, and kaleidoscopic patterns. Headwear took centre stage, from silk-wrapped helmets to floral-covered military caps, transforming symbols of war into artistic expressions. Kawakubo’s designs juxtaposed resilience with individuality, a powerful response to today’s global uncertainties. The result: thought-provoking collection that combined rebellion and beauty in signature CdG style.
Junya Watanabe: A Lumbersexual Ode to Filson
Junya Watanbe’s collection paid homage to Filson’s heritage workwear, reimagining the iconic Cruiser jacket with a contemporary twist. From traditional mackinaw wool to bold orange twill, leather, and shearling, Watanabe deconstructed and reassembled the classic silhouette into myriad forms, blending rugged tradition with high fashion. Bearded models in shirts and ties layered under Cruisers embodied a “Brooklyn lumbersexual” aesthetic, completed with Watanabe’s Levi’s remixes, Paraboot hikers, and Heinrich Dinkelacker boat shoes. The collection balanced respect for Filson’s utilitarian roots with playful innovation, offering a new perspective on timeless basics. True to its theme, the show was a celebration of craftsmanship, history, and individuality.
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