Hermès Men’s F/W 2026 felt notably pared back, even by the house’s typically understated standards, signaling a collection more focused on continuity. And in hindsight, that makes sense. This show is Véronique Nichanian’s final collection for the house, closing a 36-year chapter that set the template for how today’s men want to dress.
Nichanian, who joined Hermès in 1988, has always operated in a register far removed from fashion’s noise cycles. Her legacy is one of restraint and intelligence. Fall 2026 feels like the purest distillation of that philosophy.
Silk turtlenecks and leather trousers set the base palette in navy, black, charcoal and taupe, while overcoats came reinforced with shearling interiors and leather patchwork. The collection’s most arresting moment came via a khaki crocodile-skin suit, offset by archival callbacks; a navy leather suit from 2003 and a mocha calfskin jumpsuit dating back to 1991 resurfaced.
The collection is punctuated only by controlled flashes of coral and red, often hidden in linings or lapels. Colour here was interior, intimate, almost secretive. Silhouettes stayed loyal to Nichanian’s long-standing codes: slim through the leg, relaxed through the torso, and anchored by strong vertical lines. Trousers sat mid-to-high rise, falling in straight or softly tapered cuts with minimal break at the shoe. Jackets and coats leaned boxy without slipping into oversize territory; shoulders natural, proportions calm, sleeves sometimes slightly long, lending a nonchalant ease.
Layering was the true architectural backbone of the show. Each look functioned as a modular system: fine-gauge knits and shirts as bases, light jackets or vests as mid-layers, finished with coats, bombers, or shearling-lined parkas. Nothing felt fixed. Pieces were designed to be removed, added, reconfigured, a wardrobe that adapts to movement, weather, and time.
Fabric choices reinforced this tactility. Wool twills, soft flannels, brushed knits, matte leather, and shearling dominated the runway. There was a strict avoidance of shine or gloss; everything remained firmly in the realm of touchable, lived-in luxury. Matte layered on matte. Texture over surface.
Accessories followed the same logic of function over decoration, even with scarves, gloves and belts. Structured travel bags, duffels, and utilitarian totes replaced any notion of ornamental styling. Footwear stayed grounded in slim leather boots. The message was subtle but clear: this man has somewhere to go.
This was Hermès as Nichanian has always imagined it; modern yet timeless, practical yet poetic, luxurious without spectacle. It felt like menswear for a man who has left corporate life but still dresses like he owns a passport, a bookshelf, and a sense of purpose.
As this marks her farewell, Hermès Fall 2026 reads less like an ending and more like a closing sentence spoken softly. After nearly three decades at the helm of Hermès menswear, Véronique Nichanian’s final collection didn’t seek to summarize her legacy. It simply continued it.
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