Fine watchmaking, high end jewellery and fashion have always gone hand in hand. Increasingly, many jewellery and fashion houses are creating their own lines of watches, as a sign that lifestyle is inseparable from the art of mastering time.
Gucci: The brightest
It all started in 2021, the year of Gucci’s 100th anniversary. After launching its high jewellery line in 2019, in Paris, Place Vendôme, the Maison celebrated by adding a high watchmaking segment to its offerings.
To the delight of the brand’s followers, Gucci, famous for its joyful, quirky, slightly cheeky and wildly contemporary culture, released timepieces across five collections, the most precious of which is undoubtedly the G-Timeless Planetarium, which will be enriched in 2023 by two moon-themed creations: one is set with 12 Ethiopian opals, their effervescence highlighted by a translucent blue background; the second a dreamlike, pastel melange of topaz, peridot, amethyst and Ethiopian opals.
Bulgari: The most organic
Round-but-not-round? Or octagonal redefined? Who else but Bulgari?
This collection ranges from classic styles, the Octo Roma Automatic, which highlights a pure line and an exceptional watchmaking know-how, to baroque: the Octo Roma “Precious Naturalia” and “Tourbillon Lumière”, the only – and very exclusive – creation for women in the Octo Roma collection. Both affirm their desireablity, sharing the same connection with the mineral element (hard stone or diamond). We love the complexity of the transparent mechanism, which gives the impression of observing a living organism.
Cartier: Pure magic
Master of illusions, Cartier reinterprets the theme of the panther through one of its most precious and intricate timepieces, the Révélation d’une Panthère. In a sapphire capsule placed on the dial, some 900 gold or diamond balls bathe in a transparent fluid. The liquid was specially developed so that its viscosity makes the balls roll in slow motion with any movement of the wrist, periodically revealing the silhouette of Cartier’s totemic animal. The Panther was the nickname of Jeanne Toussaint, a jewellery designer and Louis Cartier’s lover. The founder of the Maison was forbidden to marry her because of her doubtful reputation. During WWII she nevertheless became Cartier’s art director.
Hermès: The sportiest
Although timeless, Hermès often draws on its heritage linked to the art of saddlery to develop its new creations. There is one, however, which begins its own story, unrelated to any known reference. Cushion-shaped, both square and round, the H08 watch was presented for the first time in 2021. With its large case and coloured bracelets, it filled a gap with a sporty offering. Its success was such that it was very quickly out of stock. In 2023, Hermès is offering a version that is both precious and informal, in pink gold and titanium, designed to be passed on, transforming time into memory.
Chanel: Very “Mademoiselle”
Women’s watches in Coco Chanel’s day were tiny and always disguised as jewelry, and that repelled her. By creating the J12 watch in 1987, with its sporty look and large round dial, Jacques Helleu, artistic director of Chanel watchmaking, filled a void in the sector. Better still, in 2015 came the Boy·Friend model with its octagonal case reminiscent of the shape of Place Vendôme, in Paris, in the Ritz hotel district where Mademoiselle Chanel had her room all year round. Honouring the memory of Boy Capel, one of the men in the life of Chanel, in 2022, the Boy·Friend Skeleton Red Edition and the Boy·Friend Skeleton X-Ray Red Edition watches bring a bold red shade in a traditional palette of beige, black and gold.
Chopard: The happiest
Launched in 1993, the Happy Sport was the first watch to combine diamonds and a steel case. Even today, it is one of the most iconic and sought-after models in the watch industry. The Happy Sport mobile diamond watch returns in a slimmer version than ever, with a 25 mm case celebrating the spirit of luxury jewellery watches and featuring the wonders of five dancing diamonds. Discover it in Chopard’s exciting campaign with its global ambassador Julia Roberts, as they celebrate their shared love of cinema together.
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