A palpable tension filled the air at the SEGRO Centre Paris Les Gobelins on the rainiest night of Paris Fashion Week. Guests huddled under highlighter-yellow blankets, their anticipation reaching a fever pitch as they awaited the highly-anticipated debut of Seán McGirr, the newly appointed creative director of Alexander McQueen (Instagram).
McGirr, a rising star with a pedigree honed at Dries Van Noten and JW Anderson, arrived with the daunting task of succeeding the irreplaceable Sarah Burton and filling the shoes of the legendary Lee McQueen himself. His debut collection did not disappoint, offering a glimpse into his vision for the future of Alexander McQueen.
The show notes hinted at the direction McGirr intended to take: “A rough opulence. Revealing the animal within. A compressed and elongated silhouette. Objects embedded and enveloped. Knitted statuary.” This cryptic description unfolded on the runway in a mesmerizing display of contrasting elements.
The opening look, a black laminated jersey dress with one arm wrapped across the chest, was a deliberate nod to Lee McQueen’s iconic Spring/Summer 1995 “The Birds” collection. This immediate connection to the label’s heritage was further emphasized by the casting and the overall mood, reminiscent of the macabre aesthetic McQueen was known for.
However, McGirr wasn’t simply retreading familiar territory. He boldly introduced his own design language, evident in the voluminous, sculptural knits and the sharp tailoring that stood in stark contrast. This juxtaposition created a sense of tension, a push and pull between the familiar and the new.
This juxtaposition extended to the embellishments. Signature McQueen elements, like the beautifully chaotic smashed mirror dress and the embellished blazers, were present, but reinterpreted through McGirr’s lens. He wasn’t afraid to experiment, introducing unexpected elements like the hoof-shaped boots and the glass-encrusted dresses inspired by shattered phone screens.
The collection offered a diverse range of looks, from the larger-than-life tubular sweaters and shield-like dresses in in cobalt blue and neon chartreuse to the sinister cowboy ensembles and the finale’s steel car dresses, their rigid forms contrasting with the flowing silhouettes that dominated the rest of the collection.
While some may argue that the collection lacked the extreme romance associated with Sarah Burton’s era or the grotesque juxtapositions of McQueen himself, it is undeniable that McGirr’s debut sparked conversation. Only time will tell how McGirr will continue to shape the future of Alexander McQueen. However, this debut collection serves as a powerful statement of intent, showcasing his ability to honor the label’s legacy while carving his own unique path. The fashion world eagerly awaits the next chapter in this new era of McQueen.
From the hauntingly beautiful to the audaciously bold, the Alexander McQueen legacy continues to inspire. Dive into our past coverage of the iconic label and rediscover the moments that made fashion history here.
