The world of fashion is no stranger to the dynamic fusion of creativity, and in AMIRI’s (Instagram) Autumn-Winter 2023 collection, this fusion reaches its crescendo. Creative director Mike Amiri takes us on a journey through the memories and ambitions that have shaped this remarkable collection, creating a soundtrack from fashion.
This collection is a sensory journey back to the 90s New York scene, a time when the East Coast set the agenda, and DJ Premier was its lead orchestrator. The AW23 journey began with Mike Amiri in Premier’s Queens studio, where ideas flowed, and archival cuts from the era linked with the designer’s own formative years.
The concept of production transcends inspiration, it flows through the very fabric of this collection. Amiri and his team’s methodology is similar to the creative process in a recording studio: jamming, discovering new rhythms, and experimenting with materials. Time-honoured tailoring fundamentals are seamlessly blended with elements from the worlds of skate, studio, and stage. The result is a collection of garments with loose, fluid shapes and generous proportions, exuding a downtown ease that’s effortlessly cool.
Within AMIRI’s subverted classicism, suiting becomes a daily symbol of both comfort and elegance. Blazers are reimagined with the iconic properties of a varsity jacket, while casual shapes mature gracefully with careful detailing. Shirt hems are often left untucked beneath knitwear, and trademark wide, pleated trousers take on a whole new level of comfort. The palette is a reflection of city hues, featuring monochrome, silver grey, azure, and ochre, punctuated with bold jolts of deep red and mint green.
AMIRI’s AW23 collection resonates with the optimism of 50s Americana, a time when American youth began to forge their own culture. Prep uniforms blend with Beat Generation prose, and counterculture icons like newsboy hats make a statement. This era’s spirit, with its lineage of adolescent rebellion, is seamlessly transposed into today’s world with a skate sensibility.
In this collection, familiar techniques are artfully abstracted, distorting our perception of fabrics. Swarovski sequins are hand-embroidered to mimic tassels, and the texture of fur is expertly imitated with uncut fine silk. Signature bandana prints find new life in patchworked leather and suede, while hand-painted patterns take centre stage in shearling jackets.
Craft meets flow as Premier’s layered musical scores are mirrored by textured garments. Images of Premier at his decks are translated into knits, and patchwork varsity jackets pay homage to the archives. Select pieces proudly bear the message, “Some artists make music, some make history” in striking appliqué. Like Premier’s scratches, Mike Amiri’s ornate, craftful details have become his signature.
This season also brings exciting additions to the AMIRI accessory collection. The Drum Machine bag pays homage to the favourite instrument of producers, while The Record is a nod to vinyl enthusiasts. Models carry AMIRI-branded vinyl crates, and a new hi-top MA-1 style debuts, alongside faux fur iterations of the Malibu Boot.
AMIRI’s AW23 collection is a reflection of Mike Amiri’s time in the studio, where he riffed, experimented, and found his rhythm. It’s a symphony of style and sound.
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