In a world beset with uncertainty, the Bottega Veneta Winter 24 show emerged as a beacon of simplicity and straightforward essentialism, as if somehow rising from the ashes of whatever went before. Creative Director Matthieu Blazy (Instagram) orchestrates a narrative of regeneration, where simplicity meets sumptuousness, and pragmatism intertwines with allure.
Blazy’s vision crystallizes in the collection’s monumentalism of the everyday. Silhouettes, akin to monoliths in the dark, capture the essence of purpose and confidence amidst chaos. From the scorched earth arises a new beginning, where garments and accessories become vessels of purpose and destination.
“Monumentalism of the everyday: a sense of allure and confidence in the pragmatic, utilitarian and purposeful. How daywear is perceived in this night time world; silhouettes are simplified and recognised like monoliths in the dark. In a world on fire, there is something very human in the simple act of dressing,” said Blazy in his show notes.
Gone are the days of ostentatious embellishments; instead, Bottega Veneta embraces negative space with a minimalist fervour. The essence of pre-Intrecciato Bottega Veneta resonates through purposeful plainness, where decoration intertwines seamlessly with fabric. Memory prints reveal the layers of time, while notebook weaves inscribe hope for a new future. Silhouettes that speak to the past are combined and simplified to make something entirely contemporary, utilitarian, protective. Materials are heated, moulded, boiled; cashmeres and fil coupés become practical, enduring.
The collection’s palette, dominated by nocturnal hues and fiery tones, reflects a world in flux. Carbon black, burnt orange, and burgundy coalesce with shades of fondant and dark tan, punctuated by bursts of daytime light, of sky blue and pale sun. In this landscape, the snake, the flame, and the flower emerge as symbols of resilience and rebirth.
Abstract flower prints appear on handkerchief hemmed skirts and simple shirting. The flowers become dresses comprised of laser cut micro plissé described as “‘barren blooms’ that grow in the desert and other hard, desolate places”.
Painted flames grace leathers, moving as if on fire. The snake motif appears again and again, from bags, to the new snake belt, to spiralling enamel statement earrings.
Bottega Veneta’s accessories exude an aura of inheritance and essentialism. From a grandmother’s croco to a father’s Oxfords, each piece carries a legacy of longevity and meaning. The new Liberta bag, the plain Andiamo, and the Hop and Cabat exude quiet sophistication, seamlessly integrating into the fabric of daily life.
Jewellery becomes an archaeology of the future, where ancient materials meet contemporary design. Ceramic, glass, leather, and wood converge in articulated pieces that evoke a sense of return. Torques become infinity wires, while snakes symbolize cyclical renewal.
“We all watch the same news. It is hard to be celebratory at this point. Still, the idea of rebirth is beautiful, too. These are the flowers that bloom after the earth is burnt – they give a sense of hope. They come back stronger than ever. Here, elegance is resilience,” says Blazy.
Quite. There is certainly a need for renewal, and perhaps a rebirth.
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