Fresh off his successful debut collection as Creative Director at Etro, Marco De Vincenzo took the brand to Milan to present his FW 23 collection. In keeping with his debut collection, where De Vincenzo reimagined the brand’s heritage, the designer paid homage to Etro’s rich textile culture, which he is using to reshape the brand’s codes in keeping with his interpretation of the Etro man.
Raiding the house’s textile warehouse in Como, De Vincenzo installed a collection of stunning fabrics into a vast industrial space to create the set for the show. Complete with samples hanging from wooden racks and rolls of fabrics dispersed around the set, De Vincenzo presented a collection that oozed casual style and comfort.
High-end fabrics such as Merino wool were cut into soft, supple shapes to create jumpers and cardigans in muted palettes. The garments were crafted to allow the hems to fall below the waist, while at the top, the shoulders curved naturally. The pieces were finished off with leather buttons to give them that little extra touch of luxury.
Knitwear was arguably the standout segment of the show. Big, chunky handknitted sweaters in a colour palette that blended shades of purple, made a noteworthy impact and received praise from showgoers. Tight-fitted jumpers were crocheted in cashmere and featured 3D appliques of berries. The knitwear was paired with high-waisted, roomy trousers.
De Vincenzo’s idea of tailoring is that “tailorong should look sexy”, and the designer achieved this through 70s-inspired pantsuits which were paired with double-breasted blazers and long pleated skirts.
For accessories the designer added bags, most of which were worn under the arm. The standout piece among the accessories was a small hand-held bag that featured the house’s motif combined with retro graphics.
The Etro FW 23 show might have been just his second collection as the house’s creative director, but Marco De Vincenzo is reimagining just who the Etro man is.
