Milan Fashion Week … Style-savvy gents, consider this your cue: Spring/Summer 2026 is coming in hot. While the temperatures rise, menswear is getting cooler, sharper, and more expressive than ever. With fresh creative energy hitting the runways thanks to debuts, directional shifts, and designers unafraid to experiment, classic codes were reworked with bold new vision.
Milan Fashion Week remains the ultimate stage, where Italy’s heritage houses assert their legacy and new voices rewrite the rules of menswear. For SS26, the collections clashed eras and ideologies: breezy tailoring collided with utilitarian tech, romance tangled with rebellion, and quiet confidence stood alongside full-throttle spectacle. At the same time, Italian craftsmanship was front and centre, with artisanal detail and fabric storytelling at the core.
From headline names to boundary-pushing independents, Milan Fashion Week Spring Summer 2026 delivered a season full of intent. Below, the collections that defined this season’s menswear landscape.
GIORGIO ARMANI
At 90, Giorgio Armani proves he’s still the master of soft power. For Spring/Summer 2026, he revisits his own 1980s blueprint, power tailoring, but with all the edges softened. Shawl-collared, double-breasted jackets sit low and loose, paired with pleated trousers that either taper clean or billow wide with turned-up cuffs. Fabrics did the talking: fluid silks, glove-soft leathers, breezy open knits, and rich, waxed linens created quiet depth. Models also walked the runway in co-ed pairs, a subtle gesture that highlighted the collection’s fluidity and timeless appeal across genders. It was Armani doing what he does best, refining the codes, and reminding us that elegance is eternal.
PRADA
Prada’s menswear collection for Spring/Summer 2026 was a study in ease and instinct. It carried a quiet sense of optimism, both in setting and style. The show took place inside the stripped-back Fondazione space, where natural light poured in through tall windows. The runway was raw concrete, softened only by a scattering of nostalgic floral rugs.
The clothes reflected that same pared-back mood. Micro shorts and sun-faded shirts opened the show, setting the tone for a surreal summer escape. Raffia hats and tasselled tops added a handcrafted feel. Shrunken tracksuits and printed tabards introduced a playful, 1970s edge. Tailored coats, mackintosh jackets, and sun-bleached knits grounded the collection. Nothing felt forced. Everything felt instinctive. Summer, through Prada’s lens, looks both nostalgic and new.
DOLCE & GABBANA
Dolce & Gabbana’s SS26 show opened Milan with a love letter to laid back luxury. Titled “Pyjama Boys,” the collection leaned into Sunday morning softness. With pastel stripes across the collection and silhouettes like crinkled cotton stripes, loose cardigans, and silky pyjamas layered under tailored blazers. Everything felt undone but intentional, like slipping out for espresso in last night’s outfit and still looking incredible.
The palette was pure gelato – mint, lemon, and raspberry. Crystal embellished evening sets added polish without losing the undone charm. While the footwear ranged from terry slides to fur- trimmed sandals. Overall, it was casual, confident, and just effortless.
ETRO
Etro’s Spring/Summer 2026 menswear presentation embraced its roots with quiet confidence. Held at the brand’s Milan HQ, the show opened with a live mural by Lucamaleonte, setting the tone for a collection steeped in house heritage. Signature paisley patterns appeared across silk shirts, tailored suits, and robe coats, with archival prints reimagined as subtle accents on jackets and cuffs. The palette was soft and serene powder pink, sage, and periwinkle, underscoring a mood of relaxed refinement. With pinstripes, tonal embroidery, and fluid silhouettes, the collection leaned into gentle masculinity. It was classic Etro: poetic and nostalgic in its free-spirited DNA.
EMPORIO ARMANI
Emporio Armani’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection carried a quiet strength. It blended fluid tailoring with cultural depth, drawing inspiration from North African textures and forms. Billowing trousers, scarf-like tunics, and bare-skin jackets moved with ease in earthy tones like sand, terracotta, and violet. Smocked stitching and geometric embroidery added crafted detail, evoking ancient symbols with a modern touch. Accessories included woven slippers, large bags, and straw hats enhancing the nomadic feel. The result was serene, intentional, and free. A wardrobe made for moving forward while rooted in something older and deeply felt.
QASIMI
Qasimi marked its Milan debut and ten-year milestone with quiet strength and emotional depth. Held in the cloisters of Sant’Eustorgio, a circular scaffolding installation draped in crinkled fabric swayed gently in the breeze, setting the tone for a collection rooted in softness, memory, and resilience. Designer Hoor Al-Qasimi leaned into fluid tailoring and craft, jilbab-style shirts, asymmetric tunics, and netted knits threaded with found objects. Workwear staples were reimagined with a poetic edge in washed tones of rust, tan, and chocolate. It was a show about solidarity, storytelling, and heritage, culminating in a still, powerful moment of reflection around the sculptural centrepiece.
PAUL SMITH
Paul Smith’s SS26 show felt like digging through a vintage market on a summer afternoon sun soaked, unexpected, and full of character. Shown at his Milan HQ, the collection drew from Smith’s own travel memories, with coral, lime, and fuchsia fading into dusty earth tones that looked hand-dyed by time. Printed shirts and jackets had collage artworks made from Smith’s own photos, stitched with birds, flowers, and found textures. There was ease in silhouettes like the high-waisted trousers, cropped jackets, and slipper-light racing shoes. Accessories told their own stories, charm belts, net bags of fruit, and hotel key fobs. It was polished but personal, utility driven yet joyful.
TODS
Tod’s SS26 felt like a quiet ode to Italian ease, set in the lush calm of Villa Necchi’s Gommino Club. The house spotlighted its iconic Gommino with a wardrobe shaped by leisure, elegance, and movement. Matteo Tamburini delivered unstructured jackets, linen safari shirts, and silk-soft Pashmy leather staples that looked made for golden hour strolls. Travel wool suiting kept things crisp yet easy, while loafers and sneakers reimagined the Gommino’s soul. Finished with trekking totes, Greca belts, and soft-saddle metal buckle, the collection was all about refined freedom with Italian spirit.
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI
Brunello Cucinelli’s SS26 menswear collection unfolded like a soft-spoken lesson in elegance. It wasn’t loud, it didn’t need to be. Fluid tailoring with precision in silhouettes that glided, rather than strutted. Fresh fabrics like wool, linen, and silk carried lightness in every step. Apricot, coral, royal blue and soft neutral colours moved in harmony, with Solomeo blues anchoring the palette. Blazers stretched subtly, trousers softened, and eveningwear shrugged off stiffness with silk-cotton knits and shawl lapel jackets. From featherweight trenches to unlined leather loafers, the message was clear: luxury doesn’t shout. It moves lightly, with grace, balance, and absolute intent.
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
Vivienne Westwood’s return to Milan felt like romance meeting rebellion. Andreas Kronthaler gave us a new kind of dandy… part poet, part punk with silhouettes that swung between sharp tailoring and soft fluidity. There were toreador trousers, sculpted coats with balloon sleeves, and velvet catsuits that hugged the body like second skin. Embroidered tabards and sheer dresses added a delicate touch, while towering platforms and bold slogan necklaces brought the attitude. It wasn’t about following rules, it was about playing with them. The whole show felt personal, expressive, and completely alive. This was masculinity, but rewritten with wit, drama, and full emotion.
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