Parisian Panache: Highlights from Haute Couture Week 2024

From enchanting gardens to rebellious streetwear, Parisian designers reimagine Couture.

Parisian Panache: Highlights from Haute Couture Week 2024
Mariana Baião Santos

The Fall/Winter 2024-2025 Paris Haute Couture Week has concluded, leaving a dazzling trail of creativity and innovation in its wake. From the enchanting twilight garden of Georges Hobeika to the theatrical grandeur of Chanel at the Palais Garnier opera house, each collection offered a unique glimpse into the boundless potential of where fashion meets art. Come, discover Haute Couture in 2024.

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Georges Hobeika

Stepping into a world of twilight enchantment, Maison Georges Hobeika’s Fall Couture collection unfolds like a stroll through a moonlit garden. Lush fabrics like silk, velvet and duchesse satin bloom in shades reminiscent of a vibrant sunset, from soft mint green to fiery pinks and oranges. Signature codes of drama, embroidery, and sparkle take centre stage, with gowns cascading like waterfalls or adorned with oversized, hand-crafted blossoms. The play of light and dark inspires contrasting monochrome silhouettes featuring peek-a-boo lace, while textures shift from matte to shine, and opaque to transparent, creating an illusionary effect. This evocative journey through an imaginary landscape is a testament to the Maison’s exquisite craftsmanship and its unwavering commitment to breathtaking femininity.

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In a truly theatrical move, Chanel unveiled its Fall-Winter 2024/25 Haute Couture collection not just on a runway, but at the famed Palais Garnier opera house in Paris. This wasn’t merely a backdrop, but a source of inspiration. The collection itself echoed the grandeur of opera, with rich embroidery and romantic flourishes adorning the garments. However, this was no departure from Chanel’s DNA. Instead, these opulent details were a fresh take on the house’s timeless codes, ensuring that even amid the high drama, the essence of Chanel remained.

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Balenciaga’s 53rd Couture Collection is a streetwise rebellion in Couture. Creative director Demna Gvasalia infuses goth, skater, and metal vibes into Balenciaga’s heritage, crafting innovative, sculptural garments. Classic shapes get a refresh, while fabric takes centre stage – from upcycled plastic bags to couture tees. Redefining luxury and pushing boundaries, the collection embraces sustainability with innovative techniques. A breathtaking finale – a stunning wedding dress – embodies the ephemeral beauty of couture, all tied together by the transformative butterfly motif.

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Maria Grazia Chiuri’s vision for Dior Couture is a breath of fresh air. She rejects the traditional, restrictive silhouettes of couture, instead focusing on releasing the body. Inspired by the upcoming Paris Olympics and the evolution of sportswear throughout history, Chiuri reimagines ancient Greek garments like the peplos in comfortable jerseys, freeing the body for movement. She emphasises comfort and well-being alongside beauty, prioritising the wearer’s experience over rigid construction. From pantsuits with peplos details to a stunning gold lamé evening gown, Chiuri’s collection proves that couture can be both modern and liberating.

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Channeling Elsa Schiaparelli’s surrealist spirit, Daniel Roseberry’s Schiaparelli Fall/Winter 2024-2025 is an anthem of rebirth. It’s both a tribute to the founder’s legacy and a bold leap forward. Intricate details and dramatic silhouettes nod to Schiaparelli’s rule-breaking approach. More than just gorgeous, the collection evokes emotions and sparks conversations. The theme of rebirth reflects not only Schiaparelli’s life, but fashion’s constant evolution. This is couture as a collector’s dream, offering wearers their own phoenix-like transformations. Roseberry honours the past while forging a new future for Schiaparelli, solidifying couture’s place as a transformative art form.

Thom Browne

Thom Browne’s couture defied convention, celebrating unfinished beauty. Muslin, the base for couture prototypes, became the star. Invitations were muslin coats, and the runway featured works-in-progress alongside exquisite details. From delicate frays to dramatic tailoring, muslin took centre stage. Models paused mid-runway, emphasising the handmade aspect. A sporty twist emerged with athletic embroidery, before the finale’s luxurious jackets. It was a tribute to human artistry in a digital age.

Giambattista Valli

Unveiling a “surreal dialogue” between cultures, Valli’s couture escapes the literal. Inspired by India’s serenity and Mughal art, he seeks “supreme well-being” through flowing silhouettes adorned with blooms. Envisioning a conversation between Renaissance grace and Indian artistry, his collection celebrates beauty’s healing power. From cascading florals to printed blooms, Valli’s mastery of draping and colour creates a symphony for the senses. Live music adds to the “caress for the soul,” proving beauty remains timeless.

Rahul Mishra

An  artist at heart, Rahul Mishra’s Fall Couture collection “Aura” explores the concept of aura through black and greyscale garments. A departure from his usual florals, the collection showcases Mishra’s signature intricate details and unique silhouettes alongside bolder trends. From meticulously crafted embellishments to ancient Indian embroidery, each piece is a wearable work of art, solidifying Mishra’s reputation as an artistic force to be reckoned with.

Jean Paul Gaultier

Nicolas Di Felice, known for his sleek silhouettes at Courrèges, took the helm at Jean Paul Gaultier for Haute Couture. Di Felice saw Gaultier as a champion of individuality and drew inspiration from that for his collection. The collection featured a narrative of self-discovery, with models initially veiled and gradually revealing more as the clothing progressed. Di Felice’s minimalist approach reinterpreted Gaultier’s signature elements, using clever details like hook-and-eye closures as embellishments. Gaultier himself approved, appreciating the modernisation of his iconic style.

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