Jonathan Anderson’s (Instagram) fashion at Loewe (Instagram) has always been experimental — which often begs the question, what is the purpose of fashion? In his latest show for the Spanish luxury house, Anderson describes his Fall-Winter 2023 collection as “an act of reduction,” seamlessly fusing the minimal with the sculptural.
Garments were crafted from parchment, velvet, copper, steel, leather, satin, wool, reflecting the materials used by old master painters. Artist Julien Nguyen was commissioned to create three original artworks. The interest in old mastery is triggered and mirrored in the dialogue with American artist. Whether it’s through the use of copper and vellum, often used as a base for his paintings, or through visual references to Renaissance paintings and science fiction — they all come to define the iconography of the collection, powering the reductionist act.
Throughout the collection, shapes were molded and tailored to mimic motion suspended in time — a theme we see throughout. They stood dramatically still from the models as they descended down the runway, one at a time. Pleated fabrics and pressed velvets remind you of furniture from the Renaissance — highlighting the power of Nguyen’s work.
The standout pieces from the show were looks 26 and 30. Look 26 — a single-breasted jacket is reimagined in metal by sculptor Elie Hirsch and weighs eight kilos. Sheet steel was cut and moulded using heat, manipulated by hand, taking almost 30 days to complete. Folds and creases were sculpted as they would naturally appear in fabric, creating an illusion of movement.
Look 30 is inspired by artist’s vellum. Once the material is wet, it becomes malleable, it can be shaped and sewn and when dried, the material becomes stiff depicting a moment frozen in time. A side opening is constructed using metal eyelets and studs, echoing the dress studs used in formalwear, taking its inspiration from the noble wardrobe of olden days where gentlemen’s shirts were seamless and flat.
When watching the show, it was difficult to take note of which were hard sculptures and which were just regular garments, captured mid-walk — and that is the beauty of fashion. The fact that you get to sit back, dream and question all that surrounds us, is divine. Anderson’s constant innovation turns heads, even through simplicity is the reason many flock to Loewe season after season.
Seeking sartorial inspiration? Visit our fashion pages.
