London Fashion Week (Instagram) just wrapped, and if one thing was clear, it’s that the city still thrives on contradiction. This season wasn’t about grand spectacles or viral gimmicks—it was about control, precision, and designers stripping things back to what really matters: craft. Some played with tradition, some ignored it entirely, and some twisted it into something unrecognisable. There was no single defining trend, just a quiet confidence across the board.
Simone Rocha
Simone Rocha’s latest collection balanced her signature dreamlike aesthetic with a newfound sense of practicality. Celebrity friends of the house—Fiona Shaw, Andrea Riseborough, Bel Powley, and Alexa Chung—brought a theatrical edge to the runway, but the real shift was in the clothes. Among the usual pearls, ribbons, and embellishments were wearable staples: oversized hoodies, denim jackets, and leather bikers, all glistening with Rocha’s signature touch. The fake-fur knickers may be a stylist’s fantasy, but the plush coats and wraps are destined for high-street knockoffs. Meanwhile, diamanté bike-lock belts gave an unexpected dose of toughness, proving that Rocha can do grit just as well as she does grace.
Roksanda
Roksanda’s collection was a sculptural meditation on materiality, inspired by the late British artist Phyllida Barlow. Drawing from Barlow’s ethos of transforming discarded objects into monumental works, Ilincic reimagined leftover sponge materials into dramatic, voluminous gowns. Fluid silk-georgette dresses crafted from archival fabrics and fil coupé pieces with raw, hanging threads reinforced her commitment to sustainability. Bold colours and architectural silhouettes remained at the heart of the collection, seamlessly blending fashion with contemporary art. As she approaches the 20th anniversary of her brand, Ilincic proves that longevity in fashion comes from both aesthetic innovation and responsible design.
Harris Reed
Florence Pugh opened Harris Reed’s show at Tate Britain with a haunting performance, accompanied by live cellists playing Metallica. Wearing a black hooded dress with a sharp corset, she embodied a folkloric figure meant to provoke discomfort and introspection. The collection featured pointy silhouettes and exposed caging, inspired by couturier Charles James, reflecting themes of rebellion and self-exploration. Reed revisited the punk spirit of his 2020 graduate collection, this time with gilded details and gold leaf accents. Celebrating Pugh’s unapologetic confidence, the show reinforced Reed’s ethos of embracing individuality in uncertain times.
Helen Anthony
Helen Anthony unveiled its Fall/Winter 2025-26 Ready-to-Wear Collection, a bold exploration of duality inspired by the twin personalities of Gemini. Merging nature’s raw beauty with human ingenuity, the collection embodies the brand’s commitment to craftsmanship, innovation, and diversity. Balancing structure with fluidity and tradition with modernity, each piece reflects a dynamic interplay of contrasts. By embracing opposites, Helen Anthony redefines contemporary fashion with a fearless and ever-evolving vision.
ASHISH
ASHISH Gupta’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection at London Fashion Week was a joyful celebration filled with glitzy details. The runway, decorated with balloons and confetti, featured eye-catching red sequins alongside bold slogan tees like “Not In the Mood” and “Wow, what a sh*t show.” The collection also made a political statement with messages such as “fashion not fascism,” culminating in a finale dress adorned with “dolls,” “visionaries,” and “revolution.” True to its campy and inclusive ethos, ASHISH showcased a diverse array of street-cast models while evolving its signature sequins into nostalgic silhouettes for a modern audience.
Fashion East
For the latest London Fashion Week, Fashion East highlighted its commitment to emerging talent since its inception by Lulu Kennedy in 2000. Returning designers Olly Shinder, Nuba, and Louther showcased their latest work at the Old Truman Brewery. Louther, led by Olympia Schiele, introduced tailored pieces influenced by skate culture influence, while Nuba’s menswear by Cameron Williams and Jebi Labembika explored identity through protective layers and a mix of muted and vibrant hues. Olly Shinder concluded his time at Fashion East with a shift towards more serious designs, incorporating women’s wear inspired by historical nursing uniforms and cinematic references.
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