London Fashion Week wrapped with a thoughtful mix of established names and fresh perspectives, setting the mood for Spring/Summer 2026. The schedule balanced heritage houses with a new generation of designers, each bringing their own take on craft, storytelling, and presentation. From Roksanda’s anniversary celebration to Aaron Esh’s darker edge, the week reflected London’s ability to hold space for both refinement and experimentation.
Here are ten shows that stood out, capturing the spirit of the season without leaning on spectacle alone:
Simone Rocha
Rocha’s show felt like a study in contrasts, sweetness meets subversion. Delicate fabrics like silk and chiffon were paired with unexpected elements like clear vinyl panels, off-shoulder sequinned tops, and oversized satin flowers. The collection also played with domestic intimacies: “stay home yet dress up”, with pillow-bags and ruffled accessories, invoking vulnerability and grandeur simultaneously. It reinforced Rocha’s strength in translating youthful longing (aesthetic and emotional) into gowns that feel both dreamy and defiant.
Roksanda Ilinčić
Roksanda’s 20th anniversary collection was a celebration of form and fluidity. Drawing inspiration from sculptor Barbara Hepworth, she revisited sculptural cut-outs and negative space, as well as reissues of signature dresses (e.g. “Margot”, “Anya”, “Cataline”) in new fabrics and colourways. The draping, the indulgence in volume and architectural shapes, married with rich palettes and fluid movement made this a standout show. It felt like the perfect summation of what Roksanda has always done well: romantic drama, structured femininity, and artful silhouette.
Aaron Esh
Aaron Esh’s return this season was keenly felt, his show combined dark glamour with a sense of raw London edge. He blended elements of 1930s couture (e.g. bias cut silks, slinky skirts) with street-worn leather and East End tailoring, creating tension between refinement and grit. The mood was club-like, moody, powerful: models walked with ownership, as though they weren’t performing but living the clothes. It signals Esh is maturing into a designer who can deliver both aesthetic punch and craftsmanship.
Erdem Moralıoğlu
Erdem’s collection was a lush exploration of psychic narratives and historical fantasy. Inspired by Hélène Smith, a medium from the 19th century with a flair for surreal tales, the show featured floral motifs, antique lace, bustles, and silk gowns that reference courtly opulence. There was an elegance to the chaos: shredded embroidery, rich textures, and flowing bias cuts that balanced drama with wearability. Especially now, marking 20 years of his brand, Erdem showed he can still surprise with detail while staying true to his signature romanticism.
Chopova Lowena
Always one for eccentric joy, Chopova Lowena delivered a cheerleader-coded, outsider-anthem collection. They fused elements of high school sportswear (pleated skirts, cheerleading motifs) with Bulgarian folk textiles, chainmail, glitter, and puffed sleeves. The atmosphere in the venue, a deconsecrated church turned gym hall, added to the tension between the sacred and the silly, between tradition and rebellion. It was one of those shows that makes you feel both nostalgic and pleasantly unruly.
Jawara Alleyne
Alleyne’s S/S 2026 show captured a mood of emotional residue and joyful disarray. He explored tabanca (a Caribbean term for the longing after loss, or the lull after excitement) through fabric layering, remixing jersey, chiffon, grunge denim and archival deadstock. Collaborations with Converse and even using guitar strings and drum kit hardware for jewellery gave the show a tactile, musical, communal feel. It felt like a party and its aftermath – messy, euphoric, deeply felt.
Talia Byre
A relatively young label, Talia Byre’s runway was a refreshing, wearable show with strong attitude. The collection mixed tailored trousers, knits, and more ambitious pieces like satin apron-dresses and new uses of florals. Its energy was less about spectacle and more about pieces people would want to live in, while still feeling distinctive. It was one of the moments in the week that felt both credible for buyers and exciting for editors.
Oscar Ouyang
With his debut runway at London Fashion Week, Oscar Ouyang made a memorable entrance. His knitwear took unexpected turns, combining fine techniques (Donegal yarns, Harris thread) with avian symbolism (owls, eagles), anime references, and fantasy. Light silks and linens, experimental textures, and considered atmospheres marked out a designer who pays attention to craft while pushing the boundaries of how knitwear can be expressive. It’s a debut that shows promise for future seasons.
Richard Quinn
Richard Quinn’s SS26 collection leaned fully into theatrical glamour and craftsmanship. His show, themed around “A Night at the Opera,” was grand: sparkling gowns, dramatic bows, sweeping tulle, and an opening by Naomi Campbell that underscored the show’s old-world opulence. Despite a delay, the presentation paid off, delivering on spectacle without sacrificing attention to silhouette or structure. It reminded the audience what event dressing can still achieve when unashamedly bold.
Ahluwalia
Ahluwalia’s “Affinity” collection for London Fashion Week wove together designer Priya Ahluwalia’s dual heritage (Indian and Nigerian) and a poetic sense of romantic love. She brought cultural motifs, elaborate embellishments, and thoughtful silhouettes (denim, lacing, skirts) into a more elegant and pared-back frame than some of her past work. The show gave softness, but not passivity, there’s strength and identity in the adornment. It stood out as one of the more grounded yet emotionally resonant shows of the week.
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