The international fashion circuit buzzed with energy as the Men’s SS25 collections took centre stage. While Paris remained a focal point, with its iconic runways showcasing a diverse range of established houses and up-and-coming talents, the season wasn’t limited to the City of Lights. From digital presentations to events held in unique locations, designers all over the world pushed the boundaries of menswear, offering a glimpse into a future filled with innovation, collaboration, and a touch of nostalgia.
The week in Paris began with a poignant farewell. The revered Dries Van Noten (Instagram) presented his final collection for his eponymous label, a retrospective that paid homage to his 38-year legacy. Past and present muses graced the runway, each look a testament to Van Noten’s masterful tailoring and his unique ability to blend whimsy with sophistication. Tears may have been shed, but the applause was thunderous – a fitting tribute to a titan of menswear.
A new chapter unfolded at Louis Vuitton (Instagram), where Pharrell Williams (Instagram) unveiled his highly anticipated debut collection. UNESCO headquarters became a travelogue, with models sporting safari jackets, bomber jackets emblazoned with globes, and a kaleidoscope of streetwear that screamed “jet-setter.” Williams’ “Le monde est à vous” (The world is yours) message resonated throughout – a reminder that fashion is, after all, an exploration.
Texture took centre stage at Hed Mayner (Instagram). Stepping away from his signature oversized silhouettes, for his Men’s SS25 Mayner delved into a world of tactile delight. Shiny coated cottons brushed shoulders with distressed leathers, while creased linens added a touch of sculptural intrigue. The collection was a testament to Mayner’s ability to push boundaries and challenge expectations.
Heritage found a vibrant voice at Dior Men (Instagram), where Kim Jones (Instagram) paid homage to South African artist Hylton Nel. Intarsia knits and embroidered garments pulsed with Nel’s unique energy, while a showstopping white ceramic collar jacket took inspiration from an unrealised Yves Saint Laurent sketch. The Men’s SS25 collection was a beautiful conversation between past, present, and the boundless possibilities of the future.Â
Kim Jones also took inspiration from the archives for his Fendi (Instagram) collection, reimagining classic Fendi codes with a modern twist. Playful takes on the brand’s signature FF logo, sleek tailoring with a hint of sportswear influence, and an overall sense of playful luxury marked his latest.
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons continued their co-creative reign at Prada (Instagram) with a collection that explored themes of duality and functionality. Think transformable pieces, clean lines juxtaposed with bold pops of colour, and a focus on high-tech fabrics.
Jeremy Scott for Moschino (Instagram), known for his theatrical and often humourous designs, didn’t disappoint with a playful and irreverent collection that poked fun at current trends and pop culture references.
Jonathan Anderson presented a collection that blurred the lines between nature and technology for Loewe (Instagram) with organic shapes and textures juxtaposed with metallic accents, and a focus on sustainable practices. While for his homonymous brand, JW Anderson (Instagram) whimsical prints, oversized silhouettes, and a vibrant colour palette took centre stage.
De Sarno’s Gucci (Instagram) collection was a vibrant dance of colour, texture, and tradition, showcasing self-discovery through breezy silhouettes and playful prints. Accessories echoed the surf theme, while luxurious details ensured the collection remained high fashion. De Sarno’s confidence at Gucci continues to grow.
Nigo, Kenzo’s Artistic Director, transformed the Jardin Du Palais Royal into a vibrant safari scene for his SS25 collection. Blurring the lines between Parisian chic and Tokyo’s urban edge, the show featured double-breasted suits with digitised plant images, open-air embroidery, and bold accessories.
Beyond the Runway
This season wasn’t just about individual houses. Collaborations flourished, infusing the collections with fresh energy. Wales Bonner solidified his partnership with Adidas with a collection inspired by Caribbean nightlife. Think vibrant prints, shimmering sequins on a new Samba collaboration shoe, and a relaxed, island-inspired vibe.
Emerging Trends: Softness and Sustainability
A shift towards a softer, more relaxed silhouette was prevalent across several collections. Rick Owens’ (Instagram) white satin draped “army of love” and the flowing, layered looks from Casablanca were a testament to this emerging trend. Sustainability also at the forefront, with several designers incorporating eco-conscious practices. Wales Bonner used organic cotton and deadstock materials, while The Row focused on natural fibres and timeless silhouettes built to last.
Unexpected Twists: Patchwork Revolution
Junya Watanabe (Instagram), the ever-innovative Japanese designer, pushed boundaries with his Men’s SS25 collection, titled “Denim, Deconstruction, Reborn.” Witness a deconstruction of denim classics, with patchwork, unexpected details, and a focus on pushing the boundaries of traditional menswear.
As the final runway lights dimmed on Men’s SS25, we’re left with a potent cocktail of emotions and trends. Dries Van Noten’s poignant farewell resonated alongside Pharrell’s electrifying debut at Louis Vuitton, both were highpoints of a season brimming with change. Sustainability and comfort marched hand-in-hand with audacious experimentation, a potent reminder that fashion is a dialogue that transcends fleeting trends. Men’s fashion has shed its traditional constraints, morphing into a platform for self-discovery, a gateway to fresh experiences, and a sartorial odyssey waiting to be explored.
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