The Runway Playlist – The Soundtracks That Shape the Mood for SS26.

SS26's most unforgettable shows use sound to deepen narrative, amplify emotion, and reframe the runway.

The Runway Playlist – The Soundtracks That Shape the Mood for SS26.
Anya Seth

A fashion show is choreography: lights, fabric, footsteps, atmosphere. And the runway playlist is what ties it all together. The right soundtrack sets the tempo, builds emotion, and turns a collection from a slideshow into an experience. Whether it’s gospel at Louis Vuitton, post-punk guitars at Celine, or sonic surrealism at Schiaparelli, music does what fabric can’t: it speaks directly to the soul.

It’s clear: a show without a strong soundtrack is like a dress without a silhouette. It might exist, but it won’t move you.

 

Dior Men SS26:  A Sonic Ode to Legacy and Youth

Jonathan Anderson’s Dior debut was a masterclass in fashion storytelling, layering heritage tailoring with modern rebellion, set to music that felt like a cinematic homage. Opening on Bruce Springsteen, the runway felt both grand and personal, anchoring American rock nostalgia within the refined Pochette‑lined walls of a former war museum.

No thunderous drops. No cluster of pop hits. Instead, a soundtrack guided by mood and intention, serving Dior’s luxury architecture while giving it room to breathe and reimagine. The music didn’t overshadow the clothes; it illuminated them.

 

Louis Vuitton: Pharrells Symphony of Cultures

Pharrell Williams’ Louis Vuitton men’s show wasn’t just about tailoring, it was a cinematic journey across continents and emotions, built on a rich, layered soundscape. With musical direction by Thomas Roussel and collaborations with A.R. Rahman, Voices of Fire, and Clipse, the show opened with gospel-infused swells “Miracle Worker”, dipped into Bollywood rhythms “Yaara Punjabi”, and closed on a Pharrell-produced track featuring Tyler, the Creator and Doechii “Get Right”.

This was a cultural archive set to bass and brass. The music mirrored the garments’ globe-spanning influences and elevated the show into something spiritual, euphoric, and deeply theatrical.

 

Celine: Melancholy, Guitars, and The Cure

At Celine, newly appointed creative director Michael Rider brought an unexpected softness to the house’s rock’n’roll edge. The soundtrack, an original composition by Jennifer Rouse, featured melancholic guitars and rhythmic basslines that whispered nostalgia. Referencing The Cure classics like “Pictures of You” and “Lullaby”, the score gave the show a romantic, introspective heartbeat.

Rider’s collection was clean, Parisian, and quietly luxe. But it was the music that gave it feeling, the kind of soundtrack that makes chiffon look cinematic and a simple black coat feel like a memory.

 

Willy Chavarria: Music as Political Poetry

Few shows this season felt as emotionally charged as Willy Chavarria’s “HURON” collection. Soundtracked by Marco Neves, the show began in silence, with 35 street-cast models kneeling in oversized ACLU T-shirts while an acoustic version of “California Dreamin’” played softly through the space. It was a quiet protest, evoking detained immigrants and lost identities.

From there, the soundscape evolved into ambient loops, deep bass, and whispered vocal samples that wrapped around every step like a shiver. A live performance by Mexican singer and activist Vivir Quintana brought the show into even deeper emotional territory. And the finale? … A soul-stirring rendition of “This Land Is Your Land” by Sharon Jones & the Dap-Kings, reminding everyone that belonging isn’t a privilege, it’s a right.

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