The menswear scene in the MENA region never stands still. Long dominated by Western brands and trends, nevertheless, a sense of local style and direction is emerging. Arab and resident designers are gaining ever more traction, creating pieces that are entirely contemporary, but that often merge tradition with today’s styles. Each brings a distinct perspective on what menswear means today. The result? A vibrant, shifting space that never ceases to inspire. Here, we talk to five designers within the regional scene about their hopes for the future, the challenges they face and the opportunities they hope to seize.
“There’s a fascinating revival of men’s fashion in the Arab world,” says Zaid Farouki, the Dubai-based designer behind the eponymous brand Zaid Farouki (Instagram) and ready-to-wear label Zaid by Zaid Farouki (Instagram). “Tradition and modernity are coming together harmoniously.” The region, according to Farouki, is increasingly embracing custom tailoring, limited edition pieces, and high-quality materials.
Ibrahim Shebani of Tunisian brand Born In Exile (Instagram), echoes the idea that tradition is informing the contemporary space and presenting “an exciting and untapped opportunity for regional designers.” Shebani believes that, through a dedication to their craft, local designers are offering a fresh perspective that resonates with the evolving tastes of the region. “The market is moving towards simplicity, authenticity, and an appreciation for high quality,” he says, “People seek connection with brands that value craftsmanship and convey a deeper story rather than just following what’s ‘in’ at the moment.”
This sentiment is echoed by Eric Mathieu Ritter, of Beirut’s Emergency Room (Instagram), who notes a growing interest in garments that incorporate traditional elements, albeit in new ways. “Traditional Middle Eastern garments continue to influence contemporary menswear through their wide draped cuts and appreciation for ornamentation,” Ritter explains. “These elements blend seamlessly with today’s trend for oversized, branded, and decorated staples, leading to a revival and reinterpretation of classic styles.” It seems that traditional elements are here to stay, though often in a contemporary, evolving sense.
Streetwear is another significant trend that is reshaping the menswear landscape in the Middle East. According to Cheb Moha, the designer behind streetwear label Shabab (Instagram), streetwear has become a crucial medium for younger generations in the region, “I feel like it’s a tool for communication; I’m wearing something, I’m sending a message across to someone to see me or say something. There’s more regional brands, so if someone’s wearing something from a brand that I know, I know he’s probably into this, he likes that. Now there’s more of a language that’s being spoken with menswear and people are using that to sort of identify, understand and learn,” he says.
Ritter of Emergency Room concurs, “Streetwear has definitely transitioned from being a niche market to a mainstream trend in the Middle East,” he notes. “While it was once on the fringes, we now see many affordable brands emerging that design, produce, and sell streetwear staples infused with Middle Eastern vibes,” he says.
Joseph Achajian, from Lebanon’s Maison du Mec (Instagram), is seeing streetwear becoming more popular as people seemingly move away from traditionally Western staples. He points out that while there are still strong elements of traditional Western menswear, such as tailored suits and classic pieces, there is also a growing demand for more casual, street-style garments, saying, “The young generation coming up is more trendy than it used to be. The classics? You see fewer classics on the streets nowadays. So it’s better than it used to be, at least. You have much more awareness.”
Though there’s no doubt that global trends certainly influence the scene, there’s a strong cultural undertone to much of the fashion coming out of the region. As Farouki points out, while speaking of his own House, “Our journey involves an artful fusion of global trends and our deeply ingrained cultural identity.” Farouki sees this blending of influences as creating a fashion narrative that is not only innovative, but also profoundly connected to regional heritage.
Cheb Moha of Shabab adds that while Middle Eastern menswear may often draw from global trends, the execution is often louder and bigger, an idea echoed by Achajian. Moha suggests that, alongside taste, the increased purchasing power in the region allows for an amplified interpretation of any given trend. The end result is that local tastes run a little bolder than those of Europe and the US. “Even high-end designer brands have noticed, so they’re investing more in being present here, whether it’s through pop-ups or exclusive collections for Dubai,” Moha explains, “There is a buying power here.”
This regional twist is also evident in how traditional garments are being reimagined for modern times. “Designers are reimagining these classic pieces [the thobe, dishdasha and abaya] with updated cuts, fabrics, and styles to create garments that are both functional and fashionable,” says Shebani. “[By] incorporating traditional embroidery, calligraphy, and culturally significant patterns, designers achieve a seamless integration of heritage into contemporary designs.”
All well and good. But, there are some serious challenges facing regional designers. Achajian of Maison du Mec highlights a major issue, though it’s one that might fly under the radar: consumer perception. “The consumer is not really used to buying local brands. To me, the consumer is not really convinced so far that he should pay a certain amount of money, even though the production in Beirut is ten times stronger than that of China,” he explains. Despite this, Achajian is optimistic, noting that more consumers are becoming educated about the value of local craftsmanship, especially those who have lived abroad and experienced global markets.
Alongside perception issues, there’s a feeling among some of the creatives that the local environment isn’t as developed as it could be, “Designers breaking into the Middle Eastern menswear market face several challenges, including limited access to market opportunities, production facilities, and investment,” says Ritter. “The existing supply chain and infrastructure are often not well-suited to support new or smaller menswear brands,” he says, “Unless designers are highly educated, experienced, and self-reliant, it can be difficult to attract investors or find factories willing to produce smaller quantities or experiment with creative, non-traditional designs.”
Moha agrees, when it comes to production – certainly outside of Beirut – , but he adds that if the local labels continue to grow, the industry will benefit from investment, “At some point we need a really good basic Arab manufacturer that just makes good socks and good t-shirts that everyone can get, like sort of our version of Uniqlo. Why don’t we have that? We have the manufacturers, we have the ability, it’s just a matter of time.” He adds that using local production allows fashion houses to control the quality of their products and to experiment with unique elements, perhaps further setting them apart from the global market.
Moha is right, being able to rely on local producers would be a fantastic boon for the industry. While the lack of a large local production industry is a hugely limiting factor, Achajian points out that, although it’s not at the same scale as the options available in the West, local production is a selling point for Maison du Mec, “We do produce, we have a very strong production scene in Beirut, it’s one of the strongest in the region,” he explains. However, he also notes the challenges, such as those caused by the limited availability of fabric, “We cannot find the fabrics that we need. So we need to ship our fabrics from Italy, Milan or from Turkey. I prefer to use Italian fabric. We even ship from China by DHL. So that’s a cost by itself.”
Despite, or perhaps because of, the ongoing evolution and ever-changing trends, the designers all appear to have a clear vision for the future, “I hope that my work becomes a cornerstone of this transformative movement,” says Farouki, “helping to propel SWANA menswear onto the global stage, celebrated for its creativity and cultural depth.”
For Cheb Moha of Shabab, the future is about creating a unique identity that transcends geographical boundaries. “I feel like by being in the space where Shabab exists, we’re kind of pushing more as an independent, strong design label that’s designing stuff that, sure it’s Arab, has Arab identity, speaks a universal language that people from all over the world can relate to,” he says.
Ritter envisions a future where regional menswear will become more expressive and unique. “There’s a growing appetite for more ‘fun’ and expressive fashion choices,” he notes, highlighting the possibility for designers to experiment with creations inspired by tradition but that also call to the modern man in the Middle East, a fusion of the contemporary and the classic.
When it comes to brands themselves, their own direction and hopes for the future, the designers are all positive. “I envision my brand as a driving force for positive change within the SWANA fashion landscape, harmonizing modernity with heritage and paving the way for a more innovative and responsible industry,” says Farouki.
Shebani hopes to expand his brand’s influence, both regionally and globally, while staying true to its roots in cultural storytelling. “In the next five years, we see Born In Exile becoming a pivotal voice in the Middle Eastern fashion landscape, celebrated for our innovation and storytelling,” Shebani states, “We aspire to be recognized as a brand that not only defines a new wave of Middle Eastern fashion—bold, expressive, and deeply connected to cultural identity—but also serves as a powerful voice for local designers on the international stage.”
For Emergency Room’s Ritter, the future is about continuing to challenge the norms of fashion, “Just as women embrace the peacock effect, men also have an appetite for bold expression. While they navigate the balance between personal style and societal expectations, it’s exciting to see more men dressing boldly each year,” he says. He dreams of a world where Middle Eastern menswear is recognized for its creativity and innovation, with his brand playing a crucial role in that narrative. “I aspire for Emergency Room to continue evolving and adapting to industry changes, with a focus on innovation and sustainability, while contributing positively to the growth of the Middle Eastern fashion landscape,” he says.
Moha wants to break away from stereotypes and create a brand that speaks to a universal audience. “What I see and what I do, when it comes to Shabab, I tend to not look too much into traditional stuff, because I feel like I’m labeling, “Oh, I’m an Arab, I’m an Arab designer, I should be doing Arab stuff,” he says. “My idea with Shabab is to kind of push that identity of sports, we’re in the 80s in America, or the Olympics, or whatever, and I want to take that and build on it, and create my own sort of way. Like how the Japanese took Americana, this Western idea. When you look at it you’re like, “Oh! They do denim better than America,” you know?”
“I am extremely happy where I am, I would have never done this anywhere better than Lebanon to be very honest,” says Achajian. “We started this with zero budget, zero financing, we started this from scratch. What we sold is what we produced and that’s how we grew. The challenge became bigger and bigger because we wanted to expand. I’m very happy where I am with everything going on around and in the region and worldwide.” Of his future plans, Achajian says, “We have tried so many things, we’ve done fashion shows and now we’re focusing on trunk shows; we want to go a little bit more global. We are selling in Dubai, we sell in Africa, in Gabon, we sell online in LA.”
The Middle Eastern menswear scene is in an exciting place, defined by a blend of tradition and innovation, international ambitions and a creative mindset. The designers we’ve spoken to are breaking new ground, challenging norms, and forging unique narratives that celebrate both heritage and modernity. As they look to the future, they’re taking what are still the first steps in defining a contemporary regional scene, reshaping the global perception of Middle Eastern menswear one garment at a time. Their commitment to great design, local craftsmanship, and cultural expression is paving the way for a vibrant and dynamic menswear market that is becoming uniquely Middle Eastern, yet globally resonant.
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