Milan Fashion Week (Instagram) has always been a battleground for heritage and innovation, where Italy’s most storied houses reaffirm their legacies while emerging designers challenge the status quo. This season, the Fall/Winter 2025 collections were no exception, offering a spectrum of perspectives—from quiet luxury to maximalist rebellion, from archival nostalgia to future-forward craftsmanship. Against the backdrop of a city synonymous with tailoring and textile excellence, designers pushed their visions forward, responding to global shifts in taste, technology, and culture.
Notably absent from the schedule was Bottega Veneta, as newly appointed creative director Louise Trotter prepares for her highly anticipated debut in September. In her absence, the runways oscillated between restraint and drama. Some brands doubled down on the understated opulence that has defined recent seasons, while others rebelled, bringing back bold silhouettes and experimental textures. The conversation around sustainability continued to evolve, with designers exploring new materials and production methods. Meanwhile, a renewed focus on the artisanal roots of Italian fashion was evident in collections that celebrated handmade techniques and centuries-old craftsmanship.
From powerhouse brands to independent voices, Milan’s designers have made their statements for the season ahead. Below, we break down the highlights from the key shows at Milan Fashion Week.
JIL SANDER
For Milan Fashion Week, Jil Sander’s collection played with contrasts, turning darkness into light through sharp tailoring, rich textures, and a restrained yet opulent palette. Black dominated, punctuated by silver, burgundy, red, and blue, with sequins, feathers, and ribbons adding depth to structured silhouettes. Menswear and womenswear blurred seamlessly, with kilts, sculptural coats, and handcrafted knitwear exuding both toughness and elegance. New Wave nostalgia and refined rebellion shaped the mood, where sleek minimalism met glitzy, urban glamour. Lucie and Luke Meier’s vision balanced severity with softness, elevating everyday essentials into sartorial statements.
MARNI
Marni’s Fall/Winter 2025 Vol.2 collection at Milan Fashion Week was a fusion of history and subculture, born from a month-long artist residency with Francesco Risso, Olaolu Slawn, and Soldier Boyfriend. Inspired by the energy of underground culture and the grandeur of the past, the collection transforms Marni’s home into a living canvas. The show blurs the lines between art and fashion, with tailored suits morphing from wolf hides, satin dresses blooming with flowers, and fur cascading like a storybook fantasy. Craft and experimentation took centre stage, celebrating the evolution of Marni’s identity. A playful, surrealist vision—welcome to The Pink Sun.
MAX MARA
Max Mara’s Milan Fashion Week collection channeled the brooding romance and fierce independence of the Brontë heroines. Structured tailoring met neo-gothic flourishes, balancing restraint and passion. The redingote was reimagined with shearling sleeves, quilted linings, and dramatic proportions, while tailored waistcoats and culottes added a touch of countryside rebellion. Fabrics evoked the moody landscapes of Yorkshire, with cashmere, double-face wool, and rugged tweeds in deep reds, mossy greens, and stormy greys. By night, coal-black velvet took centre stage—operatic, untamed, and undeniably romantic.
ETRO
Etro’s Milan Fashion Week collection blends mythology, evolution, and tactile materials into a dynamic, primordial vision. Drawing inspiration from ancient myths and modern theories, Marco De Vincenzo imagines a collection where prints become textures, with layered fabrics like denim, corduroy, and brushed wools. Asymmetrical lines, pleats, and fringes contour the body, while mythical animals and botanical embroideries by artist Maria Jeon created a surreal, evolutionary landscape. Accessories included alien-like jewels and bees trapped in amber, further enhancing the fantastical vibe. For men, psychedelic velvets and duffle coats added to the untamed, ever-evolving energy of Etro’s magma-inspired collection.
Brunello Cuccinelli
Brunello Cuccinelli’s Women’s FW25 Collection embraced duality, blending instinct with reason to craft an effortless yet refined style. Equestrian-inspired blazers, waterproof capes, and poplin shirts with lavallière ties were reimagined with unexpected details, such as denim under-collars and shimmering embroidery. Classic fabrics like Prince of Wales checks and tweeds transformed into fluid silhouettes, offering a fresh take on tradition. Accessories featuring soft leathers and artisanal details added a modern touch of sophistication. The collection balances light, natural tones with deep shades of burgundy and brown, creating a harmonious elegance that defines the season’s instinctive beauty.
EMPORIO ARMANI
The Emporio Women’s Collection embraced a playful spirit, blending formal rigour with a free, instinctive attitude. Playing cards were a recurring motif throughout, featured as prints, inlays, and details on sharp, sculptural silhouettes. The collection showcased rich textures with washed wools, animal prints, intricate jacquards, and printed velvets, set in a mellow palette from sandy neutrals to vibrant greens, with contrasts of red and black. The dialogue between masculine and feminine elements defined the aesthetic, with soft trousers, structured jackets, and voluminous coats. Accessories included studded flat shoes, velvet bags, and berets, completing a look that encourages risk-taking and creativity.
La DoubleJ
La DoubleJ’s collection was presented at Palazzo Visconti during Milan Fashion Week, blending fashion with the wonders of nature. The showcase featured ten kinetic sculptures by Utah-based artist Lyman Whitaker, sourced from Wind Sculptures Netherlands. These moving artworks, ranging from 1 to 1.5 meters tall, created a mesmerizing wind forest. The sculptures echoed the collection’s celebration of nature and spirituality, acting as “energetic antennae.” They invited guests to pause, embrace stillness, and experience fashion in harmony with the natural world.
SPORTMAX
For FW25, Sportmax reflected on its legacy, current realities, and future intentions, focusing on hyper-reinvention where the ordinary becomes extraordinary. The collection celebrates the women in its ecosystem, blending intellectual design with realistic intention, using complex techniques for everyday luxury. Sportmax’s signature doublé wool is reinterpreted with opaque layers, while raw and doublé denim was tailored into unexpected shapes. Leather coats were contrasted with bonded fleece, and a fully-fashioned knit suit offers a dynamic alternative to classic suiting. The collection featured accessories like soft leather fringe bags and ergonomic footwear, completing a modern, functional look with modernist eyewear and twisted metal jewellery.
VERSACE
Versace embodied the House’s core ethos of freedom, individuality, and integrity, reinvented for a new era. Donatella Versace blended the past with the future, transforming Versace Home furnishings into empowered, energy-charged wardrobes. The Women’s Collection juxtaposed sculptural silhouettes with punkish deconstruction, while the Men’s Collection featured statuesque frames enriched with graphic opulence. Both collections evoke a fusion of neoclassical and contemporary influences, merging art and fashion. Unapologetically authentic, the collections are statements that encourage embracing one’s true self and making an indelible mark.
TOD’S
Tod’s celebrated craftsmanship with an exclusive installation by Nelly Agassi, showcasing a sculptural dress made from recycled leather, worn by Carla Bruni. This work embodies the theme of Artisanal Intelligence, honouring the skill and human experience behind each product. Tod’s Creative Director Matteo Tamburini envisioned a woman who exudes authentic Italian elegance, influenced by the works of artists like Irving Penn, combining strength and fragility. Outerwear dominates with refined, elongated silhouettes, while luxurious materials like cashmere and Pashmy suede defined the collection. The collection’s footwear and bags, including the iconic Gommino Glove and Di Bag Folio, highlighted sophisticated craftsmanship, celebrating the artisans behind each piece.
FERRAGAMO
For Ferragamo, Maximilian Davis drew inspiration from the world of dance, exploring the expressive choreography of German Tanztheater. The collection merged visual elements from the 1920s and 1980s, creating harmonies across time through Davis’ unique lens, with straight-cut silken slips and utilitarian leathers. Floral motifs, drawn from Ferragamo’s 1980s campaigns, were reimagined in footwear, while surreal prints and off-stage wardrobes highlighting a sense of discomfort in the expected. The collection’s dualities, such as freedom and control, were expressed through a mix of fabrics like satin, cashmere, and glossy leathers. Accessories, including organza flowers on evening bags and a reimagined Hug bag, capture the season’s liberated spirit.
DOLCE&GABBANA
Dolce&Gabbana’s collection drew inspiration from the cool girls seen on the streets, creating a modern and fresh vibe. The focus shifts from individual items to the overall styling and approach to dressing, celebrating the creation of a complete look. The collection was split into two sections: outerwear and eveningwear, both embodying the Dolce&Gabbana identity in a simple yet contemporary way. Outerwear remained sophisticated, while eveningwear stood out with sensual transparency, short pieces, tulle, and lingerie elements. The result is a collection that balances natural glamour with a modern edge.
DIESEL
Diesel’s collection embraces disruption and experimentation, set against a massive graffiti installation created by 7,000 global street artists. The collection blended denim, utility, pop, and artisanal elements, with deconstructed tailoring, low-cut skirts and pants, and exaggerated shapes. Bouclé jackets were paired with denim peplums, while houndstooth jacquards were deliberately destroyed and layered. Leather, plasticized denim, and flocked tulle added unexpected textures, while bold, acid-fluffy knit pieces and low Diesel bumster jeans pushed boundaries. Accessories include thed Double D bouclé bag, unisex bags, chunky boots, and Diesel eyewear and watches featuring the iconic oval D.
MISSONI
Missoni’s collection reimagined daily dressing as an instinctive and free expression, blending masculine and feminine elements. Focusing on daywear, outerwear, and eveningwear, the collection features easy, enveloping shapes like cardigans, peacoats, blazers, and chunky sweaters. Garments were styled casually and spontaneously, with items borrowed from the wardrobe and paired effortlessly, like a sweater worn as a minidress or a shirt layered with a cardigan. The earthy, warm tones were accented with metallic flashes, while luxurious materials like wool, cashmere, and silk added depth and sensuality. This carefree collection embodies the Missoni state of mind, where dressing is an antidote to the immateriality of storytelling.
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