Paris Menswear SS26: Your Curated Edit

From Anderson’s Dior debut to Kawakubo’s fever dream, Paris Fashion Week menswear showed why the city remains the epicentre of fashion.

Paris Menswear SS26: Your Curated Edit
Mariana Baião Santos

From June 24–29, the grand boulevards of Paris, steeped in sartorial heritage, transformed into a dynamic playground for menswear visionaries as Paris Fashion Week dominated in the city. Over 40 runway presentations and showroom debuts unveiled a bold spectrum – from quiet luxury riffs and gender-fluid tailoring to sculptural art pieces and punk-infused rebellion. At the heart of the buzz: the much-anticipated debut of Jonathan Anderson as Dior’s sole creative director, setting a new cultural and aesthetic tempo. Meanwhile, Pharrell Williams quietly reframed Louis Vuitton menswear into a meditation on understated excellence, Issey Miyake staged a kinetic “sculpture garden” of pleated wonders, Saint Laurent invited a Fire Island breeze into the Bourse de Commerce, and Junya Watanabe redefined dandyism with punk-laced elegance.

Across museum halls and landmark chapels, music, art, and runway blurred. This season, Paris Fashion Week proved once again why it’s not just the end of fashion month, but its cultural crescendo. Here’s your debrief from Paris Fashion Week SS26:

Paris Fashion Week

Saint Laurent

For Saint Laurent SS26, Anthony Vaccarello didn’t pivot—he pared down. The silhouettes were softer, the hems shorter, and the attitude calmer, all without relinquishing the house’s razor-sharp edge. Set against the stillness of a porcelain sound installation at the Bourse de Commerce, the show unfolded like a meditative drift: mineral tones, silk sheers, high-cut shorts, and pleated skirts floating in silence. Gender codes weren’t challenged so much as dissolved, replaced by a serene duality stitched into each look. Rather than shock, Vaccarello sculpted: refining Saint Laurent into its purest, most whispering form.

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton

Pharrell’s Paris Fashion Week SS26 collection for Louis Vuitton turned Place Georges Pompidou into a life-sized Snakes and Ladders board, reimagined through the lens of Indian craft and global luxury. The Speedy P9 led the charge – embroidered, ombré, feather-light or richly textured – confirming that in this game, bags aren’t accessories, they’re protagonists. Earthy tones—mud, rust, lavender – grounded airy silhouettes layered with ease: boxers under shirting, trenches over puffers, denim as soft as soil. Threads of India ran through every detail, from metal-woven shell suits to Darjeeling Limited callbacks, all set to an original Pharrell soundtrack featuring a global chorus. Less a runway than a cultural crossroads, the show proved Pharrell isn’t just playing.

Wales Bonner

To mark a decade of Wales Bonner, Grace presented her SS26 collection – aptly titled Jewel – in a Parisian library that felt like both setting and metaphor. Drawing on heirloom sentiment and diasporic elegance, the collection balanced British tailoring with subtle nods to Black cultural refinement, echoing her role on this year’s Met Gala host committee. Berets, brooches, scalloped edges, and Art Deco flourishes made quiet references to red carpet glamour, but the real power was in its wearability: shirting unbuttoned and easy, shorts cut high, denim patchworked, and tracksuits elevated with intent. A standout moment came in the form of a cream tailcoat crafted with Savile Row’s Anderson & Sheppard, tempered by a sportier collaboration with adidas Y-3, offering souvenir jackets and sleek field shoes.

Paris Fashion Week

Issey Miyake

Issey Miyake’s IM MEN SS26 collection, Dancing Texture, unfolded at the Fondation Cartier as a quiet but radical study in material poetry. Inspired by Japanese ceramicist Shoji Kamoda, the garments channeled his expressive forms into fabric – through opalescent bonding, silver foil folds, pigment-dyed gradients, and heat-sensitive jacquards that shifted in motion. Each series paid tribute to a specific Kamoda motif: from scale-like patterns to lustered glazes, the textiles became meditations on depth, texture, and tactility. The show also marked the launch of Issey Miyake Foot, a new collaboration with ASICS, where the debut “Hyper Taping” shoe transformed the brand’s stripes into structural, athletic tracery. The result was a collection that didn’t shout but shimmered – an elegant dialogue between craft, movement, and memory.

Paris Fashion Week

Dries Van Noten

Julian Klausner’s menswear debut for Dries Van Noten was both a reverent homage and a subtle recalibration. Staged in a sunlit garage packed with die-hard fans, the show nodded to Dries’ origins while gently asserting Klausner’s own voice – most notably through soft tailoring, sarong-pareos, and sleeveless evening tops that bridged his womenswear past with his new menswear role. Textile storytelling remained central: stripes made from upcycled jacquards, opera coats with camo embroidery, and florals that ranged from lush cloque to beachy prints infused the collection with a tactile richness. The overall mood channeled a “morning after” sensibility – formal but rumpled, glamorous but lived-in – mirroring Klausner’s desire to balance bold styling with real-world wearability.

Paris Fashion Week

AMIRI

AMIRI SS26 invited us into the dreamy, sunlit haze of the fictional Château AMIRI – a place where elegance lingers long after the party’s over. Mike Amiri traded last season’s nightlife energy for a slower, more romantic rhythm: silk robes, tasselled details, and relaxed tailoring captured the feeling of waking up in a luxurious hotel suite, barefoot but impeccable. Artist Wes Lang’s bird drawings – originally sketched during his stay at the Chateau Marmont – reappeared as delicate embroidery and jacquards, weaving a quiet thread of nature and nostalgia through the collection. Womenswear took on new depth, with open-knit gowns, slinky silk tailoring, and accessories like the crocodile-stamped Honey bag pushing the brand’s sensuality further. The whole thing, staged in a garden-like Carreau du Temple, felt a reverie.

Paris Fashion Week

Dior Homme

Kim Jones who? Jonathan Anderson’s debut for Dior Homme was a shift. In a fashion landscape often obsessed with novelty but allergic to risk, Anderson did what few dare: he rewrote the Dior playbook without disrespecting it. From cryptic Close Friends invites to ceramic tokens replacing traditional show cards, the build-up felt more like an underground art happening than a global brand activation. And then came the clothes – Bar Jackets reimagined with volume and wit, cargo-pleated shorts that shouldn’t work (but gloriously do), and tailoring that winked at tradition while dismembering it. It was a cerebral, sculptural, and utterly strange collection, grounded in British eccentricity and French heritage – proof that Anderson isn’t just stepping into Dior, he’s reshaping it from the inside out.

Paris Fashion Week

Comme des Garçons

Rei Kawakubo’s SS26 collection for Comme des Garçons Homme Plus, titled Not Suits, But Suits, arrived not with logic but with heat, abstraction, and a ritualistic kind of chaos. The venue – humid as a sweat lodge – set the tone for a procession of un-suits: jackets and trousers sliced, layered, panniered, zipped, and restructured beyond recognition, patterned so intensely they seemed to vibrate. Kawakubo grouped her ideas in phases: black deconstructed tailoring, ghostly knitwear spliced and scarred, pale ensembles with prosthetic collars, and rainbow-striped constructions that bandaged the body like sacred relics. Baseball caps with exaggerated brims, braided wigs, and oxford shoes added to the ceremonial feel, as guttural chants and humming replaced music. It was part fever dream, part fashion séance—less about wearing a suit, more about questioning what one even is.

Paris Fashion Week

Hermès

Hermès reinvents men’s summer dressing for 2026 with a collection that champions light, fluid tailoring and effortless urban sophistication. Presented at Paris’s Palais d’Iéna, the lineup favors clean lines, sharp angles, and a warm palette of earthy tones: mastique, kraft, caramel, and rich burgundy, lifted by subtle mint green accents. Cut-out leather details freshen structured jackets, adding volume without weight, while airy shirts and wide, cropped trousers paired with rope sandals create a sense of ease and elongation. The collection balances texture and movement, mixing traditional materials like leather, knit, and cotton with luxe fabrics such as shantung and silk twill, featuring asymmetrical pleats and soft colors. Hermès’s summer 2026 tailoring breathes freely, designed to move and to relax.

Jacquemus

Jacquemus’s SS26 Paris Fashion Week collection at Versailles was a graceful celebration of elegance and ease, with flowy silhouettes that felt perfectly at home in the historic setting. Departing from the bold, skin-revealing moments we’ve come to expect, this season favored a more restrained, classic approach infused with modern twists. Architectural necklines and flowing skirts moved with a dignified fluidity, balancing structure with softness. The palette of sun-drenched pastels and earth tones added to the serene, refined atmosphere, it was a poised, sophisticated collection—timeless yet undeniably contemporary, worthy of the palace itself.

For more stories of international fashion, like this roundup of Paris Fashion Week, visit our dedicated pages and follow us on Instagram.