Watching the Saint Laurent Men’s Winter FW 2023 collection brought to mind one idea: timeless glamour. Monday night’s show in Paris marked Saint Laurent and Anthony Vaccarello’s departure from rock-tinged styles and the arrival of a new look for the brand.
Saint Laurent Men’s FW 2023 collection is comprised of largely black items, with a little sprinkle of whites, beiges and greys, in silhouettes that borrow from Saint Laurent’s and Vaccarello’s womenswear collections. It is a forward-thinking approach, one that reinforces the house’s bold sense of sophistication, highlighted by the incorporation of large bows that have for a long time been a staple feature of womenswear. The bows appeared on tops crafted from silk.
But the borrowing from womenswear didn’t stop with bows. For some time Vaccarello has been showcasing dramatically attenuated silhouettes in his womenswear, and this collection saw the designer transferring design details to his menswear line. Looking back at his Spring 2023 womenswear collection, it is easy to recognize the similarities in the floor-sweeping, broad-shouldered coats. Appearing in wool, mohair, cashmere and leather, the coats featured sharp shoulders and broad lapels.
As with his womenswear collection, Vaccarello brought the capuche, or hood, to wrapped and draped tops, as he did with dresses at Saint Laurent Women. Hooded knitwear tunics were paired with ground-skimming, sweatpant-inspired trousers that bring a sense of ease to the otherwise precise design.
Held at the rotunda of the Bourse de Commerce, Francois Pinault’s contemporary art museum, the show was a return to Paris for Saint Laurent. Vaccarello has previously shown his collections on the road to Marrakech, Jersey City, Venice, and Malibu, but the designer noted that going forward, he plans to show in Paris every January. For fans around the world who ache for a Saint Laurent show in their city, the designer is not doing away with his travelling shows completely, while he will show in Paris in January, he plans to take his Saint Laurent shows travelling once a year.
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