In a bold departure from the concise looks of the previous season, Daniel Roseberry of Schiaparelli (Instagram) sought adventure, exploration, and daring for the brand’s latest collection. The pieces exude an organic, sensual quality, with an impromptu essence that captivates the senses.
Through the liberation of separates—a pristine white shirt, impeccable pants, voluminous puffer coats, and even knitwear staples like cardigans and tube skirts—Roseberry sought to curate an extraordinary wardrobe. Not just any wardrobe, mind you, but a Surrealist’s interpretation of a woman’s essential closet. The Maison fronted their manifesto with a quote from Ralph Waldo Emerson, “Every spirit builds itself a house; and beyond its house, a world; and beyond its world a heaven. Know then, that the world exists for you: build, therefore, your own world,” words that could have been written for Schiaparelli.
There is an unmistakable sense of freedom and disobedience in these pieces—a woman can assemble them however she pleases, embracing a feeling of transgression and spontaneity. Interestingly, this collection was brought to life in a revelatory manner. Instead of meticulously crafted formulas developed over months, most of the looks seen here were put together mere days before the show. This approach lent an air of freshness and unleashed an unprecedented creative energy.
Unifying the collection is Schiaparelli’s longstanding connection to art and artists—an ongoing dialogue that has enriched and inspired the Maison throughout its history. Each piece draws inspiration from an artist, be it from Elsa Schiaparelli’s era, the mid-century, or contemporary times. For instance, the body of a woman was hand-painted with brushwork reminiscent of Lucian Freud’s style, and that image was then transferred onto a stretch silk body stocking adorned with shimmering paillettes, each stroke a testament to Freud’s influence.
The sculptor Jack Whitten’s mosaic creations birthed a captivating broken-mirror stretch cardigan and skirt, a leather cigarette box accentuating a ball gown skirt is an homage to Sarah Lucas. Yves Klein’s pebble-like beads and powder pay tribute not only to his work but also to Miro’s whimsical illustrations for children. There are tributes to Dali, Matisse, and even a white marble Venus, making an appearance on a winter white melton coat. Lucian Freud’s London studio walls inspired the dramatic chaos of painterly brushwork on an oversized white laminated puffer coat, adding an element of artistic chaos to the ensemble. This collection thrives on the agony and ecstasy of creation, yet offers timeless garments that a woman can cherish throughout her lifetime.
The spirit of transgression and wit permeates the accessories of this season. Giacometti’s monumental sculptures served as inspiration for the delicate drops of stone-capped gold, creating a new chapter in bijoux. Claude Lalanne’s beloved moldings led to the creation of magnificent brooches and cuffs, incorporating the faces of the brand’s artisans cast on leaves from Roseberry’s own house plants. Wooden bijoux include burl wood hands, plaster white lobsters, and the iconic Inauguration Dove—a symbol of hope—dipped in gilded 24K gold leaf.
Redesigning the Schiap bag, a icon of Schiaparelli, was also an integral part of this collection’s vision. Hand-painted in vibrant multicolored alligator skin, adorned with piles of lightweight wooden beads, or incorporating the signature ‘trapunto’ technique with strands of plaster beads and bugle beaded measuring tapes—each rendition breathes new life into the iconic piece. The toe shoes and keyhole shoes, stripped down to their bare essentials, exhibit the Maison’s signature measuring tape running up the leg, a detail that will continue to grace the future lines of footwear.
“We live and create fashion in a time when creativity, internet-breaks, and celebrity gags come at us weekly, daily, and now by the hour. Some of these aren’t even created by human hands or minds. Most all of them are forgotten by tomorrow. It’s why I wanted this collection to be aggressively, unmistakably human – and to be rooted in artistic references that feel timeless. To dress, decorate, but most importantly, to create, is as primitive as any instinct we have,” said Roseberry. We’re certain his latest won’t fade from memory any time soon.
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