The CHANEL (Instagram) FW 23/24 Haute Couture collection by Virginie Viard reveals a remarkable blend of contrasts and balance that epitomizes the essence of a sensitive yet bold Parisienne. Just like our imagined woman, the collection exudes a sense of undeniable charm that defies definition and conventions and unites elements that are often segregated, categorized, and ranked for convenience’s sake.
Viard herself explains, “Playing with opposites and contrasts, with nonchalance and elegance, is like standing on a line between strength and delicacy, which, at CHANEL, is what we call allure.” It is through this interplay of opposing ideas that the true power of a woman from Paris is brought to life.
Every aspect of the Parisienne’s life, from her fashion choices to her literary preferences and even her outlook on life, is meticulously scrutinized and studied, according to Viard. Whether through opposition or imitation, she serves as an inspiring role model who impacts on the lives of others. Her allure transcends collections, traversing the realms of cinema, literature, and music.
In this Fall-Winter collection, the juxtaposition of tweeds, silk chiffons, organza, and inlaid lace, along with the fusion of floral and graphic motifs, testifies to the effervescent creativity and femininity that permeate the feminine, CHANEL universe. Delicate flowers and wild fruits, strawberries and blackberries, blossom over intricate embroidery, infusing the collection with an air of vitality.
“If we’re in Paris,” Virginie Viard adds, “and this time we’re in Paris itself, on the quayside. The street and the colourful paving stones call for both sophistication and simplicity.” The decision to present the Haute Couture show on the banks of the Seine, with Vanessa Paradis embodying the spirit of Parisienne allure, transports us on a journey through a realm of captivating images and stirring emotions, a world where beauty and timelessness intertwine.
Masculine-inspired overcoats, flowing blouses cinched with golden tweed skirts featuring flat pleats, exquisite vest tops, pin-striped trousers, and men’s waistcoats coexist harmoniously with a long black chiffon dress exuding ethereal lightness, painted eyewear, and two-tone Mary-Janes. The collection artfully plays with the timeless codes of CHANEL, merging rigidity with asymmetry, understated tones with vibrant hues, and confidence with subtlety.
As Viard says, “Handing down emotions, bringing the most unlikely elements together, doing things your own way, just dreaming,” are the keys to understanding this stunning collection. A testament to the power of fashion to evoke emotions, the ability to unite the unlikeliest of elements, and the freedom to create one’s own reality through the transformative power of dreams, Viard’s collection is a triumph.
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