Inspired by Manchester’s vibrant cultural scene, CHANEL’s 2023/24 Métiers d’art collection celebrates a harmonious blend of tradition and modernity. With Virginie Viard at the helm, the collection infuses classic CHANEL (Instagram) elements with a contemporary twist, creating an unforgettable sartorial experience that resonates with the youthful, fashion-forward audience of today.
“Manchester is the city of music. It incites creation,” declares Viard, Artistic Director of CHANEL. The city’s profound connection to music and culture serves as the backbone of the 2023/24 Métiers d’art collection, which debuted on the atmospheric Thomas Street in the North of Manchester. As dusk settled over the city, the collection came to life, enveloping the audience in a symphony of colours, textures, and emotions.
Central to this collection is tweed, a fabric synonymous with CHANEL’s heritage. Viard’s vision, however, diverges from the traditional interpretations of this classic material. Inspired by Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel’s own innovative spirit, Viard introduces a vibrant, pop aesthetic to tweed. “I thought a lot about Gabrielle Chanel but I didn’t want to recreate Coco’s look, when she was wearing the Duke of Westminster’s jackets. I took my cue from the Coco who brought colour to her tweeds,” she explains.
The result is a dazzling array of suits, bags, and accessories in a kaleidoscope of colours: salmon pink, pumpkin, apple green, mustard, sky blue, red, and rust. This palette not only pays homage to the sixties but also imbues the collection with a youthful exuberance that is quintessentially CHANEL.
The CHANEL 2023/24 Métiers d’art collection is a tribute to the unparalleled craftsmanship of the House’s artisans. From the intricate embroidery and feather work to the jewelled buttons and hats crafted by the Métiers d’art residents at le19M, every detail is meticulously executed.
This dedication to savoir-faire is particularly evident in the collection’s signature Mary-Jane shoes. Reinterpreted by the legendary Massaro shoemaker, these two-tone Mary-Janes in kidskin and grosgrain are a modern take on an iconic CHANEL design first created by Raymond Massaro in 1957. The shape elongates the leg, while making the foot seem smaller. Available in both flat and heeled versions, these shoes perfectly complement the collection’s playful yet sophisticated vibe.
Viard’s vision for this collection is deeply rooted in British culture, drawing inspiration from various iconic elements of Great Britain. This is reflected in the diverse range of garments, including wraparound skirts, miniskirts with godets, Bermuda shorts, and coat-dresses, all featured in luxurious tweeds and knitwear from Shetland. The cuts are fitted, with skirt waists worn slightly low on the hips, exuding a casual yet chic elegance.
In yet more nods to British tradition, the collection incorporates whimsical touches such as teapots, vinyl records, and floral motifs, adding a playful dimension to the sophisticated designs. This juxtaposition of the classic and the contemporary encapsulates the essence of CHANEL’s enduring love affair with Great Britain, a relationship that has flourished for over a century.
Virginie Viard’s approach to the 2023/24 Métiers d’art collection is both poetic and emotional. She focuses on the feelings evoked by the garments, rather than adhering strictly to the aesthetic. This emphasis on emotional resonance is beautifully captured in the collection’s fluid lines and harmonious colour schemes, which create a sense of continuity and coherence.
One of the standout features of this collection is the way Viard marries simplicity with precision. The chains at the bottom of the jackets, the contrasting inner fabrics, and the multiple topstitched panels not only enhance the functionality of the garments but also celebrate Gabrielle Chanel’s mastery of tailoring.
The CHANEL 2023/24 Métiers d’art collection is a vibrant celebration of youth, creativity, and craftsmanship. By blending traditional elements with modern influences, Virginie Viard has crafted a collection that speaks to the dynamic spirit of today. As the sun sets over Manchester, it’s easy to imagine the city’s streets echoing with the sounds of applause and admiration, a fitting tribute to a collection that truly embodies the timeless allure of CHANEL.
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