Gucci Ancora, Sabato De Sarno’s new direction

A new director, a new Gucci.

Gucci Ancora, Sabato De Sarno’s new direction
Sandra Yeghiazarian

Gucci (Instagram) unveiled a stunning new look under the direction of creative director Sabato De Sarno. De Sarno, a veteran who honed his craft behind the scenes at fashion titans like Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, and Valentino over 13 years, presented a clean, new outlook that speaks to confidence, love and happiness.

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The show’s opening acts showcased a departure from the opulence of the past, with a laser focus on everyday essentials and a refreshing take on super-minimal suiting.

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The runway witnessed the resurrection of classic suit elements, now paired with simplicity: plain white tees, tank tops, towering platform loafers, sleek white dresses adorned with crisp darts, and, most notably, blazers and shorts without any accompanying layers. The era of the “teeny short suit,” a trend also championed by Tom Ford, has officially arrived, and De Sarno made sure it took centre stage this spring.

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The collection, named Ancora, showcased a spectrum of styles and designs that underscored the winds of change at Gucci. Emblazoned monogram shift dresses, generously tailored vests left unbuttoned, glistening crystal-adorned bras, and monogrammed baggy dresses and matching accessories reigned supreme. However, what truly defined the new Gucci were the bold blazers and suits that dared to go shirtless—injecting an editorial panache into the realm of everyday fashion.

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De Sarno’s debut collection marks a significant shift for Gucci, a departure from its maximalist past toward a minimalist future. This was a collection focused on joy, a passion for life and the rich, beautiful variety we see all around us. Simple, yet sophisticated, this was a world of beauty in the everyday. Light, happy and ready to step out, the pieces speak to a sense of calm certitude, of knowing oneself. Whether spending time with friend and family, or dancing the night away, it’s a tale of love, closeness and connection.

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One thing is clear: Gucci’s new chapter has arrived.

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