Hermès’ men’s ready to wear – A study of tender strength

Inspired by a soft summer breeze, Hermès’ latest are light, open and delicate.

Hermès’ men’s ready to wear – A study of tender strength
Louis Parks

Hermès’ (Instagram) SS24 men’s ready to wear show was held in Paris’ Palais d’Iéna, previously the site of a museum dating from the late 1930’s.


Inspired by soft summer breezes, Hermès’ collection evokes a feeling of inner, assured strength. Light, almost weightless, the pieces hint at architectural influences, yet flow and as they move, suggesting a soft breeze.


With innovative cuts and soft textures, colours are nuanced and volume key, all of which creates striking silhouettes.


Freedom reigns supreme through shorts, jackets, and short trench coats. Jackets hang a touch longer, accompanied by slim trousers. Tunics and beach blazers crafted from technical fabric are adorned with parasol stripes. Everything comes together by pairing jackets with rounded cuts and rolled-up trousers. Loose knits become our companions during cooler hours, while heavy silks grace summer nights.


Light caresses skin and reveals reversible leathers. Transparencies are brought to life, unveiling the subtle layering and relief effects of materials. The flair of a shirt expertly cut from a twill scarf emerges and the contrasts between silk, cotton, technical fabrics, and cashmere take centre stage.


The palette enhances the feeling of softness, desert hues intertwine with steamy greys, hemp, taupe, sage, white, mocha, liquorice and more.


The mosaics of 24, Faubourg Saint-Honoré find expression in openwork motifs, while topstitching adds its notes. Pockets draw oblique strokes, and leather appears in mesh knits, with crocheted inserts on another.


Blousons adorned with ribbing and straight blousons crafted from Sport calfskin capture the attention, while coloured wave topstitching brings an element of playfulness to the scene. Over-shirts and blousons make their presence known in Plume nubuck calfskin or nubuck calfskin with mosaic pattern perforations. Reversible blousons, over-shirts, T-shirts, and tank tops enchant in mesh calfskin, donning the Della Cavalleria print, while reversible hooded blousons feature rubberized lambskin and technical mesh compositions.


For the occasional rainfall, we find water-repellent compact cotton serge and lambskin raincoats. Straight blousons and parkas, exhibiting kinetic topstitching sit alongside short parkas in striped technical canvas.


Wrinkled cotton fabric gives life to tunics, hooded blousons, and short-sleeve over-shirts, while wrinkled ‘tracing paper’ fabric appears on over-shirts. The canvas of mini-gingham technical canvas brings forth straight blousons and sweatshirts.


Jackets offer two-button variations in wrinkled piqué technical fabric, offering maximal pockets or striped patterns within technical canvas. Straight or double-breasted jackets, fashioned from more ‘tracing paper’ fabric or silk and cotton, add a touch of elegance.

Mousqueton bucket bags, carefully crafted from Evercalf or Swift calfskin, sit alongside ordage tote bags, fashioned from rope and Clémence bullcalf. Waist bags in silk twill, adorned with the Étriers print and Swift calfskin become the perfect companions, to name but a few.

White gold and diamond Chaîne d’ancre necklaces in various golds add a touch of glamour while a Punk series of necklaces and triple rings in silver make a statement of edgy sophistication. A mono earring in lacquered palladium-finish metal forms a bold accent to complete an ensemble. Double étrivière belts, crafted from exquisite bridle leather accentuate the waistline as do those crafted from calfskin. Sandals boast notched soles, carefully crafted from cotton serge and calfskin.


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