As the inaugural celebration of Men’s Fashion Week this year came to an end, we eagerly packed our bags and journeyed to the enchanting city of Paris to witness the distinctive offerings from the remaining fashion houses during Paris Fashion Week (Instagram). Umbrellas at the ready, amid cold days in Paris, the shows served as an impeccable wellspring of inspiration, poised to establish the trends that will shape the rest of the year. Brimming with fresh concepts, captivating colour palettes, intriguing textures, and innovative silhouettes, each fashion house unravelled a unique narrative for the Paris Fall-Winter Men’s Fashion Week. Let’s delve into the stories told by these prestigious names!
Louis Vuitton
After Pharrell’s unforgettable show for Louis Vuitton last year, he made yet another memorable appearance with an interesting narrative to share. Williams highlighted the often-overlooked diversity among the earliest cowboys, unveiling the true nature and presence of Black and Native American figures in Western history, an ode to his own background. Collaborating with artists from the Dakota and Lakota tribes, the collection features hand-painted details and desert flower embroideries. The runway, adorned by music co-composed by Williams and Lakota artist “Hokie” Clairmont, acknowledged Native voices, further emphasizing the theme of inclusivity. The collection showcases exceptional craftsmanship, with details like embroidered lace shirts, denim jackets adorned with desert flowers, and innovative additions such as leather or denim chaps embroidered with saddlery patterns. The integration of turquoise accents across suiting, denim, and accessories further solidifies the narrative, demonstrating a thoughtful and candid approach to storytelling within the fashion realm. The audience left the show truly saddled up with inspiration for the year!
Acne Studios
With the collection drawing inspiration from the era of “Rebellious Denim,” this year’s presentation from Acne Studios was entirely centred around, you guessed it, denim! Serving as Acne’s primary fabric, this collection stands as a tribute to the transformative power of denim. By experimenting with printing on the fabric using chains and straps, the medium automatically gains amplification and elevation in the eyes of creative director Jonny Johansson, introducing a new contemporary and futuristic element to the mix. Cyberpunk aesthetics are reintroduced through the inclusion of knitted base layers, work jeans, strappy shorts, fluoro accents, hypertight shirting, shearling-lined boots, denim bags, and colourful, super-sized fur hats, all of which contribute to a youthful and edgy feel infused into the ensembles.
Balmain
Tuning up the maximalist aesthetic for Paris Fashion Week, Olivier Rousteing firmly believes that this collection embodies the epitome of luxury. The unveiling began with a fully beaded crystal topcoat, offering a sneak peek into what awaited. The runway showcased structured silhouettes, embellished decorative touches, and an interplay of prints and textures. Cummerbunds adorned with lips, brooches, jacquard suiting, printed shirts, and monochrome patterns on bombers and shirts, coupled with lip shoes, added to the visual spectacle. Amidst this explosion of expression, Rousteing introduced a new concept, drawing inspiration from the sapeur cult in Congo. This influence manifested through colour blocking, polka dots, and structured tailoring. Collaborations with Accra-based Prince Gyasi and Cameroonian Ibby Njoya enhanced the collection’s vibrancy. Metallic gold sculptures and armour-like adornments provided a discreet touch for moments when discretion is preferred. In its entirety, this collection served as a true feast for the senses.
Givenchy
In this transitional period of Givenchy’s creative journey, the collection marks as an interval between creative director Matthew M. William and his successor. Celebrating the artisanal power of craftsmanship in the Givenchy atelier, the collection brings studio members together for an interregnum between Willams and whoever comes after him. With a keen focus on the house’s founder, Hubert de Givenchy, the collection pays homage to his distinctive attire. Further exploring Givenchy’s personal traits, such as his fondness for cats, the collection features vintage-inspired prints on shirts and fur jerkins. Infused with humour, charm, and sophistication, it showcases trompe l’oeil hair print scarves and outerwear with shaggy details. A gender-neutral touch is evident in brimless raised cloche hats and a cocooning camel teddy coat. Standout pieces include chandelier print jacquard trousers, casually styled safari jackets with unique shoulder features, and couture parkas that honour the brand’s heritage. Givenchy is now poised for its next chapter!
Rick Owens
Rick Owens opens the doors of his home to the world as he presents his collection titled “Porterville,” a homage to his hometown where he often encounters intolerance due to his societal rebellion. This collection is a declaration of resilience against stereotypes and standards. Coined by Owens as “airport beauty” – reflecting societal expectations regarding beauty, body, and dressing standards – the collection rebels against these norms, taking a raw and sincere stance. It features protective shield-like pieces, such as ecclesiastical spiking on duvet jackets, a cocoon-like embrace in balled body wrappings, and the robust toughness of fluffed jumpsuits and capes. Additionally, the unveiling of Owens’ Geobasket sneaker suggests his deep consideration for an audience currently grappling with societal intolerances and criticisms. Owens introduces collaboration elements in this collection, seen in features like the inflatable rubber boots by London-based designer Straytukay and rubber jackets and pants crafted by rubber couturier Matisse Di Maggio. We truly traversed the valley of rebellion with Rick Owens this fashion week!
Isabel Marant
With convention rarely at the forefront of Isabel Marant’s focus, she and creative director Kim Bekker joined forces to craft a collection that blossomed purely from spontaneity. Breaking boundaries and presenting everyday wear that is both effortless and unbothered, the duo brought the “preppy grunge” collection to life, adding a refreshing twist to this year’s Men’s Fashion Week. Achieving imperfect looks that contribute a unique character to one’s personal style, Marant’s collection showcased a leopard belt and faux tiger stripes seamlessly integrated into a diverse palette featuring layette pink, lavender, yellow, and a touch of smoky red. These hues were skilfully paired with cable-knit sweaters, jacquards, and Dad shirts. Standout pieces included a bronze puffer, echoing one of the upcoming season’s key colours, and a khaki jacket with a striking contrasting collar, radiating strength and style.
Dries Van Noten
Looking back at the essence of the House, Dries Van Noten took a slightly unexpected turn this season, turning our expectations on their head. Venturing down the path of the unfamiliarly familiar, Dries Van Noten has crafted elegance and sophistication for every type of individual. With tailoring taking centre stage in the collection, notable twists and subtle details emerged, such as removable knitted sleeves enhancing long fitted coats, shaggy scarves embellishing tailored pieces for added texture and dimension, and classic silhouettes and garments standing out against printed textiles. Reimagining daily essentials, suit fabric cargo pants, leather outerwear, and fuzzy textures of shearling and mohair also had their moment to shine. Not to mention the refreshing colour palette of classic neutral tones adorned with additions of pink, yellow, and blue pastels. Van Noten injected just the right amount of unfamiliarity into the everyday familiar wardrobe to spice things up!
Dior Homme
Kim Jones presented a harmonious marriage between practicality and poeticism in his men’s fall-winter collection. With an unwavering belief in the value of the past, Jones weaves a narrative that connects Monsieur Dior with ballet partners Margot Fonteyn and Rudolf Nureyev, exploring their relationships and contrasts. Drawing inspiration from Dior’s archives, especially Saint Laurent’s pleats, vents, volumes, necklines, and tailoring, the runway showcased Nureyev’s flamboyant nature and love for antique textiles. The Sixties and Seventies influence the collection with flared trousers, zipped wool jumpsuits, shorts, duffle-inflected outerwear, and leathers, reflecting Nureyev’s active, ballet dancer lifestyle. Accessories mirror the simultaneous simplicity, discipline, and extravagance of both worlds, taking inspiration from dancing slippers and masculine evening wear traditions. The collection features softly constructed utilitarian bags, including oversized grained micro cannage camera and bum bags, amplifying house codes. This collection is truly a nostalgic journey into the past.
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