The shows are back in town as the highly anticipated Fall-Winter men’s Fashion Weeks make a triumphant return. Serving as the inaugural fashion week of the new year, fashion insiders gathered on the 12th of this month for the grand reveal of the latest collections. Kicking off in Milan, we were afforded a glimpse into what each brand has to offer.
From the sleek and elegant creations of Prada, Gucci, Missoni, Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, and Emporio Armani to Zegna, to Tod’s and Fendi’s exploration of the importance of fundamentality and craftsmanship, the runway laid bare the true value of timeless pieces. To add a little spice to the mix, JW Anderson and Dsquared uplifted our runway spirits with splashes of camp, maximalist ensembles.
Here’s a deeper dive into what you might have missed.
Prada
Straight from the Fondazione Prada, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons initiate an intriguing conversation through their collection. The thematic core of their conceptual framework revolves around nature, exploring how we insulate ourselves in human-designed synthetic environments while inevitably returning to the natural world. Encouraging the audience to connect with nature and their surroundings, the collection was meticulously crafted to cater to various facets of man. The lineup featured textured swimming caps paired with goggle-inspired spectacles, leather sandals, and a diverse range of outerwear, ranging from sleek raincoats to naval jackets adorned with gold buttons. Triangular leather belts with attached equipment packs, along with webbed nylon totes, added practical functionality to the collection.
Dsquared
It was no surprise that Dean and Dan Caten’s collection revolved around a concept close to their heart – twins! Expressing that they are the same, yet have unique quirks, their pieces showcased these differences through an array of camp and maximalist details. From furry, fringed, and outdoorsy elements to distressed denim, knits, and sequined numbers, there was just the right amount of comic sass to keep everyone’s eyes wide open. As for the evening wear, the colour black took centre stage, with body-skimming necklines and sultry slim tuxedos with feminine undertones – just what the audience needed to get their camp on!
Gucci
Sabato De Sarno skillfully mirrors timely classics from his past collection, infusing familiar silhouettes and textures with fresh variations. His meticulous attention to detail and passion for harmonious fabric interactions is clear, with Milan serving as the cornerstone of his identity. De Sarno’s expression reveals a collection celebrating life’s various facets—unrestrained joy, provocative glamour, and an unapologetic embrace of simplicity. It intricately weaves these elements, capturing emotions through a unique artistic lens. Beyond mere clothing, it’s a narrative encapsulating the sheer joy of life, passion, and the essence of humanity. The runway featured daring pieces, including silk choker-clasped scarves, crystal collars, vests, and bold heavy metal necklaces, provocatively challenging societal norms. Noteworthy were the narrow-cut one-and-a-half-breasted suits with deep indented creases, playfully pushing the boundaries of traditional tailoring in a style reminiscent of Fontana. Additionally, the oversized Jackie bags with extendable shoulder straps made a striking appearance.
Fendi
Birthed with an identity that flows from the marriage of tradition and technology, this collection, designed by Artistic Director Silvia Venturini Fendi, spotlights a masculine wardrobe born from a love for the great outdoors, yet simultaneously woven with Roman decadence. The hybridity of silhouettes, and the meanings behind them, asks a constant question throughout the collection. Various fabrics, including wools and exquisite cloths, shine in a wintry palette featuring peat, granite, burnt umber, coal, and forest green. Bright accents of cornflower and denim blues, cherry, grass green, canary yellow, and cloud grey add vibrant contrasts or harmonious tones. As the collection unfolds, the spirit of Scottish kilts is evident, through pleated shorts, checked skorts, and tailored trousers. Outerwear combines fisherman’s coats with opulent bombers, showcasing leather collars and suede ‘corduroy’ accents. Playful knitwear, washed denim, and mohair textures add flair. Noteworthy pieces include fringed ‘furs’ in denim, a polished leather trench, and glossy satin evening ensembles adorned with crystal FF brooches by Delfina Delettrez Fendi.
Dolce & Gabbana
This collection was all about elegance. Highlighting the very core of Italian craftsmanship and quality, as well as Dolce & Gabbana’s ever loving devotion to the colour black, the audience witnessed the true power of tailoring, silhouettes and cuts. With sleek tailoring taking the lead, tuxedos, jackets and satin shirts adorned the runway. Not to mention the graceful drapery of thin scarf collars and organza flowers that added the perfect touch of romanticism and class.
Missoni
Missoni’s collection spoke of high spirits, sleekness and spontaneity. The Missoni man is described as playful and effortless in his approach to dressing, combining textures, surfaces, and layers to create a relaxed and flowy energy. The collection highlights the informal and dynamic nature of the silhouettes, featuring wide-collared cardigans, long double-faced coats, double-faced cardigan jackets, shirt jackets, suits, soft trousers, polo shirts, shirts, and crew neck jumpers. After the clock strikes twelve, the Missoni man transforms as tufty faux fur coats, crystal-encrusted cardigans, and glitter bombers worn with matching shirts and trousers begin to surface — for there is a Missoni man in every man!
JW Anderson
Feeling nostalgic about the passing of the festive season, JW Anderson had a lot to say about his love for Christmas in this collection, particularly paying homage to the film Eyes Wide Shut. Although literal symbols and imagery relating to Christmas were nowhere to be seen, gimmicky motifs of cats, car interiors, stars, plants, and quirky prints adorned the collection. This was as literal as Anderson got with implementing his inspiration onto the runway. The collection featured an array of oversized jersey and knitted sweaters draped over sheer tights, oversized velvet blazers, trench coats, and T-shirt dresses, paired with leather tassel slippers, preparing the wearer to playfully dress up and confidently head out the door without looking back.
Tod’s
With an ode to craftsmanship and high quality, the collection from Tod’s focused on experimenting with new fabrics, textures, and finishings and how they can be manipulated to create an elevated feel to the house’s artisanal processes. Throughout the presentation, the materials had a smooth and fine finish, highlighting a luxurious yet relaxed feel. Leather, cashmere, wool, and newly introduced pashmy were the stars of the show as bomber jackets, knitted jumpers, biker jackets, and blazers were highlighted in the name of functionality, timelessness, and effortlessness.
Giorgio Armani
Opening with a projection of the House’s namesake’s striking blue eyes adorning the runway, a showcase of fluid, relaxed, and soft silhouettes emerged. Described as unusually usual and in line with the brand’s DNA, the collection presented different variations of Armani’s iconic suits, trousers, jackets, and unstructured fits. Casual pops of colour and the cravat as a main accessory added a touch of flair to the ensembles. The fabric, however, is what made this collection truly relaxed and fluid; just how Armani pictured it. From intricate and soft jacquards to printed velvets and the occasional ski-inspired synthetics, the collection beautifully encapsulates effortless classic wear that never goes out of style.
Emporio Armani
The ship has set sail with Emporio Armani’s latest collection. Derived from the concept of the cold winter sea and the adventures that come along with it, this collection represents every captain, engineer, sailor boy and cabin crew on deck! With the seas blues, striped collars and accents, heavy leathers and touches of greige and charcoal, each piece was nothing short of an adventure.
Zegna
Alessandro Sartori and Zegna’s gift to the runway screamed innovation. For this collection, called The Osai of Cashmere, his main goal was to highlight the process of sublimation where he breaks down menswear to its most fundamental core, slowly uncovering the ideal wardrobe for every man. Featuring the new Triple Stitch Monte Shoes and Il Conte Jacket, The Oasi of Cashmere’s ever-evolving silhouettes are achieved through artful layering and a dimensional approach to colour. With a variety of fabrics and a contrast of dark and light colours, this is precisely what the collection has achieved.
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