In a garden of fashion, the Fall/Winter 2024 women’s collection from LOEWE (Instagram) blossoms as a paradisal masterpiece, echoing Albert York’s sentiment that this world is our Garden of Eden. LOEWE, renowned for distinctive perspectives, challenges class norms through a lens that is both blunt and abstract.
The show space, a maze or art gallery bathed in shades of green, pays homage to York’s idyllic landscapes, 18 of which appeared on the walls. York, born in 1928, left an indelible mark on art, his intimate depictions – collected by Jacqueline Kennedy – now grace the collections of in the collections The Museum of Modern Art in New York, the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston, and the Cleveland Museum of Art.
‘I think we live in a paradise. This is a Garden of Eden. Really. It is. It might be the only paradise we’ll ever know. And it’s just so beautiful. And you feel you want to paint it,’ York once said.
The runway tells a tale of provenance against the backdrop of York’s intense paintings, where wealth and class find a new language. Etonian morning suits meet wooden carvings turned coat collars; beloved dogs immortalized on garments; floral tapestries and caviar beading adorning attire, biker boots, and Squeeze bags.
Tailoring and couture collide, masculine and feminine languages blending seamlessly. Faultless jackets meet flowing slacks; neckties complement sculptural short dresses. The ordre de passage opens with flou, interspersed with pieces crafted from boxer shorts, a nod to bespoke and prerogative.
LOEWE’s mindscape unfolds, emphasizing leather’s importance—draped nappa blousons, aviator jackets, and Flamenco Purses take center stage. Ostrich features as a trompe l’oeil hyper-real print, and prints create illusions of materials or melt into checks. The collection is a celebration of the moment, echoing Albert York’s philosophy that paradise is in our existence.
This season, LOEWE’s runway represented a fusion of art, fashion, and life and a was fitting beginning to spring.
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