Some watches are remembered for their mechanics. Others become icons because they refuse to look like anything else. The Louis Vuitton Monterey belongs firmly to the latter camp.
First conceived in 1988 in collaboration with pioneering Italian architect and designer Gae Aulenti, the LV I and LV II were Louis Vuitton’s first wristwatches. Their rounded, pebble-like cases, graphic dials and unusual crown positioned at 12 o’clock immediately gave them an identity of their own. The nickname “Monterey” reportedly emerged from the American pronunciation of montre, the French word for wristwatch.
Almost four decades later, Louis Vuitton is bringing that design language firmly into the present. Following the 2025 limited-edition yellow-gold revival, the Maison introduces two ceramic Monterey models in green and glossy black, both joining the permanent collection. Inspired by the original LV II, the watches retain the unconventional spirit of the 1980s design while allowing material, colour and contemporary watchmaking to push the story forward.
The Monterey’s renewed relevance also speaks to fashion’s appetite for objects that move freely between disciplines. Vintage LV I and LV II watches have become increasingly sought after by collectors, while recent Louis Vuitton womenswear shows have presented them beyond the wrist, worn as pendants or attached to belts. What began as a timepiece has increasingly become a piece of design, jewellery and styling all at once.
Both new watches preserve the Monterey’s 37mm diameter, while the case is slightly thicker, at 11mm, to accommodate the automatic LFTMA01.02 calibre. The move from the original quartz mechanism to an in-house self-winding movement represents one of the most significant technical updates. Functions are intentionally reduced to hours, minutes and seconds, keeping the dial clean and graphic.
Colour gives each version its own personality.
The green edition pairs a polished green ceramic case with a matching lacquer dial, yellow hands and a white minute track. The yellow is a subtle reference to the stitching traditionally associated with Louis Vuitton leather goods. The black model takes a sharper monochromatic direction, combining glossy black ceramic with a matte white dial, red hands and railtrack, and a fine blue seconds hand. A black calfskin strap finished with red stitching extends the contrast beyond the dial.
Yet much of the Monterey’s appeal lies beneath its apparently simple form.
Ceramic was chosen for its durability, corrosion resistance, lightness and distinctive ability to interact with light. Producing the precise green tone proved particularly challenging, requiring repeated testing to evoke the colour of the earlier watch while still appearing contemporary.
Louis Vuitton’s approach to the material is notably intricate. Rather than beginning with a conventional moulded case, zirconium oxide ceramic powder is blended with pigments, compressed into a solid block and machined into the Monterey’s curved profile. The case is then fired at temperatures above 1,000°C. After firing, it must be manually ground and carefully hand-polished, since excessive pressure can damage the ceramic.
The same attention extends to the lacquer dials. Finding the correct green alone required four weeks of pigment research and testing. Multiple lacquer layers create depth, followed by a matte varnish applied by hand and precision stamping for the minute track and Louis Vuitton signatures.
Even the movement, concealed beneath a closed caseback, receives detailed finishing. The LFTMA01.02 calibre features a circular-grained mainplate, sandblasted bridges, colourless sapphires in place of traditional rubies and a rose-gold rotor finished with an engraved LV Monogram.
Matthieu Hegi, Artistic Director at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, describes the new pieces as preserving the essential codes of Aulenti’s original design, from the railway-style tracks and syringe-shaped hands to the crown at 12 o’clock, while allowing the Monterey to function as a contemporary statement piece.
That balance is ultimately what defines the new Monterey. It is recognisably rooted in 1988, yet its ceramic construction, automatic movement and fashion-led versatility make it feel distinctly current. Rather than simply reproducing an archival watch, Louis Vuitton has treated the Monterey as a living design object, one capable of moving between wristwatch, collectible and personal style statement.
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