Charles Zuber may, for some, come as a surprise inclusion on the exhibition list at Watches and Wonders 2023. The brand is newly founded and is revealing its first High Jewellery line, Pomander, as well as its luxury watch collection, Perfos. Behind the brand is a Geneva-based atelier inspired by the creations of a 20th century Swiss jeweller, who has crafted pieces for some of the most well-known brands out there.
Created in collaboration with Swiss designer Eric Giroud, the Perfos is a luxury sports watch that features an integrated bracelet. The watch has a unique personality, thanks to its eye-catching, sleek and powerful build, as well as multiple facets that allow the watch to display a range of contrasts. The piece is designed with a square, octagonal case that combines straight lines with soft curves and a flat bezel. The Perfos’ 3-piece architecture is highlighted by satin-brushed and polished surfaces, while the fluted crown is adorned with a cabochon. The top layer of the watch is coated with zinc, which protects the case from corrosion while giving it an iconic effect and flamboyant tones.
Eric Giroud designed the watch to reflect light, playing on the case and the dial as a tribute to Charles Zuber’s Rock ‘n Roll personality.
The Perfos is best described as subtle sophistication, thanks to its distinctive, elegant dial. The piece has many highlights, but the sandwich construction of the dial with a pen-worked plate with triangular grooves fixed to the base plate is one that immediately draws your attention. Each opening correlates with one of the sixty highly polished indexes. The centre of the dial features a round applique, with a polished finish that houses the brand’s logo, as well as a seconds dial with a crosshair design.
While the outside of the watch is impressive, the true power lies inside the case. The Perfos is powered by an automatic calibre 01, which is visible through the exhibition case back. The architecture of the rotor reflects the design of the watch and features straight and parallel bridges, which deliver a power reserve of 48 hours. The movement is finished off in a dark grey colourway and is accented by blue screws and Geneva stripes that radiate from the micro-rotor.
The watch is worn with an integrated plate steel bracelet that secures to the wrist via a triple folding clasp. The atelier also offers leather straps for those who want something more subtle. The watch is also available in titanium and gold and comes in three sizes, as well as a quartz movement offering.
The 39mm steel-on steel Charles Zuber Perfos retails at $24,609 and is available at www.chaleszuber.com
