Nearly two months after Alessandro Michele’s (Instagram) departure from the Italian house, Gucci (Instagram) presented its latest Fall 2023 Men’s Collection in Milan. It’s the first standalone men’s show in three years and was designed by the label’s in-house team.
The collection was a palette cleanser and maximalism is clearly out at Gucci. As the first model appeared on the runway in a simple white, cotton t-shirt paired with slouchy tailored pants, “less is more” seemed to be the new ethos and the message was clear. This is a drastic shift from Michele’s 7-year tenure at the Italian heritage house.
The Gucci Fall 2023 Men’s Collection served to remind us that “improvisation is an act of collaboration” and is a “constructive tool for creation,” that springs from the knowledge and skills of its practitioners. By embracing the changing of ideas, the collection naturally reflects the uniquely multi-faceted creative team behind the scenes. The collection also referenced multiple pre-Michele eras of Gucci, highlighting archival staples such as Tom Ford’s Piston Lock, the Horsebit, as well as the Cross.
Gucci’s seemingly new direction is fresh and bold. To have such a 180-degree turnaround is brave — they are setting the scene for what’s to follow. From vivid pastel colours, a shift away from plaid and all things GG-centric, to this casual take on formalwear, namely, boxy and detachable suits which were a recurring theme throughout —”improvisational styling” reigned supreme.
If this collection is anything to go by, the new Gucci man can said to be one that enjoys a simple yet elevated look. By focusing “on the archetypes of the classic gentleman’s wardrobe, redefined through artisanal luxury amplification and the subversive lens of improvisation,” the brand is tapping into a new generation of consumers who are keen to invest in long-lasting, minimal pieces.
However, Michele’s flamboyant influence, that many have come to love, was still there — albeit in a more somber way. As was reiterated in show notes that stated “diverse expressions of the characters who carry them, the garments speak to different understandings of the seduction instinctive to the masculinities of Gucci” — the collection is free and boundless.
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Watch the full Gucci show below:
