A Feast for the Unknown with Schiaparelli SS24 Haute Couture

Catalysing our current fascination with the celestial realm, Elsa Schiaparelli’s uncle, Giovanni Schiaparelli, made a groundbreaking astronomical revelation in 1877: the discovery of a network of channels and a massive presence suspended above Mars’ surface. Giovanni also invented the term “Martian,” a term that has significantly shaped and will continue to influence our world to this day. This plays a significant role in unravelling Schiaparelli’s (Instagram) Spring Summer 2024 Haute Couture collection. 

Reflecting on the Maison’s history, it becomes evident that its strong ties to astronomy were deeply influenced by Elsa’s enduring fascination with it. Elsa found profound inspiration and a means of self-expression through the act of gazing at the stars, and this connection has left an indelible mark on the Maison’s creative legacy. 

In celebrating the unknown and the avant-garde, this collection embraces the natural realm and its concealed uncertainties. The union of art and nature gives rise to an unexpected beauty, where the interplay between the known and unknown manifests. Using familiar materials intricately woven into the conceptual fabric of undiscovered realms, this collection comes to life. 

These unlikely marriages manifest in the collection through the contrast of tradition and modernity. By utilising traditional artisanal techniques, including over-embroidered guipure laces, velvet and lace appliqués, and hand-cut and embroidered chenille fringe, in contrast with modern and innovative shapes and patterns such as the motherboard-and-strasse microchip dress encrusted with pre-2007 technological artefacts meticulously sourced, the Maison’s philosophy, passed down for many years, is revealed. Not only has Elsa’s fascinating world reincarnated into current collections, creative director Daniel Roseberry has undoubtedly merged his own influences with that of hers. Influenced by Roseberry’s home the runway was adorned with Texan iconographies, from the bandana, remade in hand-painted paillettes; to the cowboy boot, reconceived as a thigh-high fantasy bristling with buckles; to the iconic horse braid dressage knots redone as silk satin spikes and smothering a camel suede bomber jacket and a white denim corset suit. 

To infuse a touch of mystery into the ensembles, Elsa’s iconic codes, including the keyhole, measuring tape, and anatomical body parts, have been intricately woven into jewellery, shoes, accessories, and embroidery. These elements serve as secret symbols for each wearer.

The culmination of diverse influences deeply embedded in the Maison’s journey, Roseberry’s Texan heritage, and the harmonious blending of the familiar and undiscovered, unfolds as a visual spectacle in true Schiaparelli fashion. Viewers have undeniably embraced a curiosity for the unknown and a newfound appreciation for the overlooked nuances of everyday life, as seen through the distinctive lens of Schiaparelli.

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