Lebanese fashion house Maison Georges Hobeika showed its FW/2023-2024 collection in Paris last night with a show that was visually arresting, while at the same time being socially relevant. Hobeika substituted its usual upbeat references for something dark, as it looks to shed light on what the Maison calls “creatures of the night”.
A commentary on social issues
Georges Hobeika’s shows are generally filled with light, but for its FW/23 Ready to Wear collection, the Maison decided to go dark. Celebrating the division between night and day, Hobeika, looked to focus on creatures of the night, or vampires. The show was full of rich references – with creative inspiration from the series True Blood, social commentary on the dichotomy of the accepted vs. the unaccepted, as well as a contrasting desire to belong. Analysing the show, and the collection, quickly places this dichotomy in context – beneath the visual drama and beauty lies a powerful commentary on the importance of mental health of the workers – particularly security people and healthcare workers – who stay up all night to allow others to sleep.
Vampire vocabulary
The collection dips into the world of vampires for inspiration. Hobeika looked deep into the vocabulary of the vampire world to create a collection which moves away from Maison’s usual upbeat style. While there is a paradigm shift, the collection remains true to the arresting intensity that Maison Georges Hobeika has become synonymous with. The seasonal collection is captivating and includes menswear looks, but it is the edgy details on the clothing that bring Hobeika’s sense of spectacle. The dégradé colour schemes offer a play on the contrasting shades of sunrise and sunset. The early morning is represented through shades of green, orange, and red, while night takes on shades of purple, black and blue that provide the collection with its crepuscular feel.
Hobeika’s Orchid Motif
Throughout the collection Maison Georges Hobeika’s trademark orchid continually appears. the Maison is well known for its rich embroidery, and this makes its way into the pieces by playing on delicate flower detailing, as well as three-dimensional effects which suggest dragon skin, keeping to the fantastical theme of the collection.
A sense of reality
There’s no hiding the fact that the collection and the show were both filled with otherworldly references, however, the shapes and materials used in the collection bring a sense of reality to the ornate pieces. Fresh from introducing its menswear lines – which are now becoming a staple in its collections – Hobeika introduced another first for the Maison – denim. Throughout the collection, denim serves as a base for embroidery and dramatic shapes. Spectacle arrives through nude trompe l’oeils, while sparkle comes in the form of chain detailing on garments and in accessories in the form of necklaces and belts. Keeping with the night walking theme, the Maison’s jewellery department crafted glittering earrings in the form of vampire fangs.Â
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