Jonathon Anderson, the creative force behind JW Anderson, spent time revisiting past collections while planning his FW23 collection. The designer looked back and chose pieces from his archive, gave them a colour refresh, and added images created by dancer and choreographer Michael Clark.
Bagpipes sounded as the show kicked off, followed by models in tank tops adorned with the dance company’s moniker. It wasn’t long before a past reference appeared on the runway and Anderson sent models down the runway in crinkled leather T-shirts that featured the show’s invite in print.
For Anderson, and the rest of us, nowness matters, senseless newness not so much. The leather T-shirts were followed by fifteen years of JW Anderson condensed, redone, and renewed. Off-the-shoulder tops in fluffy faux fur came with frontal hand warmers that referenced one of the designer’s iconic looks. Anderson reused the pocket dress with frilly hems that featured in his FW 13 menswear show. As he glanced back, he took inspiration from his Bumper Bags and created new knitwear in thick ribbed wool featuring bulging necks, hems, and cuffs.
“At its core, this is a collection about fandom,” Anderson said. “Fandom is a funny thing, completely personal, frequently irrational, often embarrassing. As I looked back through my own archive for this show, resurrecting elements from each collection of the last fifteen years, Michael let me rifle through his. It helped me pinpoint my own obsessions.”
Tailoring came in the form of jackets with sculptural epaulets on the shoulder blades and open cut arms were a revival from the designer’s archival formalwear. The fandom came in the form of iconic looks worn by the dancers, like the famous Tesco-themed leotard. Elsewhere, the anchor branding was drowned in Michael Clark logos that were seen on striped long-sleeve tops, which Anderson is synonymous with.
Ultimately the collection is for Anderson’s long-time fans, who can all now get their hands on some of the most iconic looks from his previous collections, all updated for the present moment.
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