Erdem Miralioglu, the creative force behind fashion house Erdem, presented his Fall 2023 collection that takes inspiration from the Victorian home he shared with his partner. During the Victorian era, the home had been A Home of Hope for the Restoration of Fallen Women. It was founded in 1860 and served as a refuge for women in need until some time in the 20th century. As the pair peeled back the layers, they found arsenic-infused wallpapers, a hidden hatch, and a drawing of a nude in silhouette. Some 3,216 women passed through the doors of the building, and the models perhaps represented their descendants as they walked in the show.
The discovery of his home’s history led Erdem to search for stories of the former residents, and what he found were tales of intoxicated women who caused a stir in the conservative society. Erdem channeled these tales as inspiration for his latest collection. In his latest work, the designer looks at a broad spectrum of women from the Victorian age, and his collection features jet-embroidered coats and exaggerated opera gloves. The collection is nostalgic, and the nostalgia comes to life through textiles, embroidery, and prints.
The set was dimly lit, giving an air of the era he referenced and evoked memories of the women as they stumbled into their home of hope. The collection featured an injection of arsenic yellow and lilac. For those seeking tailoring, Erdem produced cropped tuxedo shirts, as well as a double-breasted yellow wallpaper coat that unravelled at the hem.
“They were women with no means. Widows, sacked women, maybe seamstresses,” the designer said. While the women may have departed, perhaps there was once a sense of revelry in the house. It was certainly present in Erdems Fall 2023 collection.
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