In the spellbinding world of KENZO (Instagram) by Nigo, the Fall-Winter 2024 Women’s and Men’s Collection unfolded during Paris Fashion Week as a cinematic masterpiece, aptly titled “KENZO MAGIC GALAXY.” This collection, a universal wardrobe spun from the Occident to the Orient, showcases the Maison’s evolving elegance under the artistic direction of Japanese streetwear designer and founder of A Bathing Ape, Nigo (Instagram).
Guided by the legacy of Kenzo Takada, who made waves in the French capital, Nigo explores the introduction of non-Western influences into the realm of Parisian fashion. In a creative analogy, he draws inspiration from George Lucas’ use of Akira Kurosawa’s samurai films in shaping the iconic Star Wars universe—a fantasy culture like no other.
The collection seamlessly blends Japanese tradition with sci-fi-related influences, resulting in captivating details and silhouettes. A kimono coat takes on the lines of a warrior cape, while a weave inspired by a Japanese hakeshi baten fireman’s jacket creates an ancient-future graphic. Plissé dresses drape like the cloaks of space fiction heroines, and a dot pattern from fifteenth-century kimonos transforms into a constellation of stars.
Music serves as a poignant theme, with Nigo paying homage to Ryuichi Sakamoto and Yukihiro Takahashi of the Yellow Magic Orchestra (YMO). The late musicians inspired compositions that echo the East-West musical dialogue, adding another layer of cultural richness to the collection.
Silhouettes for both women and men reflect elements of both East and West. Women’s tailoring embraces elongated lines, sculpting body-conscious and looser volumes, while men’s silhouettes morph tailored and casual lines, expressing voluminous coats and barrel-leg trousers along with military influences.
The collection features myriad themes and motifs, from weave patterns influenced by Japanese fireman’s jackets to Marguerite motifs inspired by ancient patterns. The Star Tiger, KENZO Constellation, and Boke Constellation logos add visual poetry, creating a tapestry of cultural references.
Materials and techniques take center stage, with faux fur, three-dimensional knitting, sci-fi-esque metallics, and intricate jacquards bringing the collection’s motifs to life. Gakuran suits crafted in technical wools and denim, heavy-duty cottons in cargo silhouettes, and shearling, leather, and cotton nods to military wardrobe showcase the diverse material palette.
The collection extends beyond clothing to include innovative bags, shoes, and accessories. The KENZO Furoshiki bag transforms Japanese art into a soft silhouette, while genderless sneakers and futuristic biker boots add a touch of innovation.
As a tribute to early school years, Nigo embellishes garments with charms and letter chains, reminiscent of Japanese pupils customizing their gakuran uniforms. Metal jewelry and judo belts add finishing touches, paying homage to both tradition and the language of sci-fi.
Futuristic, cultural, a blend of East and West, KENZO’s latest is a triumph.
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