Pierpaolo Piccioli, the Creative Director of Maison Valentino (Instagram), has always seen colour as a powerful means of expression. In the Fall/Winter 2024-25 collection, Valentino Le Noir, Piccioli reimagines Valentino through the prism of black, unveiling a spectrum of shades within the colour. As the House said in a statement, black includes “The blacks of Mark Rothko, the reflective blacks of Pierre Soulages, the sculptural black forms of Constantin Brâncuși”, all these delicately different tones express a sense of breadth and depth rarely, if ever seen in other colours.
Black, as a colour, embodies various meanings and interpretations – from the depths of Mark Rothko’s paintings to the reflective hues of Pierre Soulages and the sculptural forms of Constantin Brâncuși. It symbolizes universality and individuality, absorbing light and cultural significance. In Le Noir, black becomes more than just a hue; it transforms into a rebellion against romance and a celebration of graphic elegance.
The collection reinterprets Valentino’s iconic elements – rosettes, ruffles, embroideries, and lace – within the realm of black. Volants and plissé abstract into chiaroscuro, while tailoring speaks a language of strength and fragility. Fabrics, embroideries, and patterns breathe new life into black, with techniques like Altorilievo (high relief) executed in tulle, casting shadows on the body. Here, black becomes more, the House’s tailoring is translated to dresses, fragile, yet strong. Romance is present through transparent elements, as the House’s typical silhouettes, but here they become contemporary, embracing the modern woman. The whole juxtaposes lightness and power, past and present, femininity and power.
In Le Noir, day and evening converge, transforming precious silhouettes into relatable, everyday wear. As Baudelaire suggests, black encapsulates its own democracy, offering a space for diverse expressions.
In Valentino’s Le Noir collection, black becomes a canvas for modern luxury and timeless sophistication.
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