Yves Saint Laurent knew how to empower women. While his eponymous house has always stayed true to its roots, it’s also the label that created the Le Smoking and classics like the Modrian Shift. But, at the end of the day, it’s about empowerment, always has been, always will be.
The heart of the collection lies in its tribute to pioneering women who carved their own path in traditionally male-dominated domains. Icons like Amelia Earhart and Adrienne Bolland serve as muses, inspiring not only the designs but also the spirit of the collection.
With that in mind and if, through Anthony Vaccarello’s vision, the previous season was a masterclass in ’80s-inspired power dressing, the Saint Laurent (Instagram) Spring/Summer 2024 collection takes a captivating turn towards a more understated, yet impactful and contemporary style.
For this collection, Vaccarello’s creative vision led him back to the roots of Saint Laurent, paying homage to the fashion house’s illustrious heritage. The overarching theme? Soft elegance.
The runway tells a story of geometric modernism, adorned with kaleidoscopic and mineral surfaces, all under the watchful gaze of the iconic Eiffel Tower. It’s a setting that perfectly encapsulates the collection’s ethos—combining contemporary minimalism with timeless grace.
From the very first look, it’s evident that Vaccarello is celebrating the legacy of Saint Laurent. A safari jumpsuit graces the runway, a direct homage to the safari jacket—an iconic creation that the maison’s namesake designer introduced to the high-fashion world.
Loose silhouettes prevail, mingling with utilitarian-inspired pieces, including variations of safari jackets and jumpsuits. The collection effortlessly blurs the lines between menswear and womenswear, with cinched waist belts, wide-leg workwear trousers, and deconstructed boxy trench coats.
In a departure from recent seasons’ opulence and the overt merging of masculinity and femininity, this collection elegantly navigates Saint Laurent’s 70-year heritage with a contemporary lens. The result? A chic and sensual ensemble that respects its lineage while charting a modern course.
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