Under Pont Alexandre III, beneath the Parisian glow of the first full moon of the year, the Maison Margiela 2024 Artisanal Collection (Instagram) is a captivating tale told through the vision of John Galliano. The collection unveils an exploration of consciousness, of the self, of presence and sentiment, through a voyeuristic approach of the hidden facets of Parisian nights, capturing the city’s elusive allure. Taking inspiration from cinema in philosophy and technique, the show was seen by physical and digital audiences alike, through multi-disciplinary staging.
As the canvas of self-expression, silhouettes are shaped with body-modifying corsets and prothèses, studying the ritual of couture techniques, crafting narratives reminiscent of a painter’s creative journey. Featherlight garments, a result of the innovative milletrage technique, seamlessly merge haute couture artistry with trompe l’oeil prints, conjuring illusions of depth. Exercised through emotional cutting, the garments carry the essence of unconscious gestures that mold our perception.
Diving into the delicate realm of focus, dresses adorned with variations of fade of aquarrelled tulle and encrusted lace, showcase the gentle degradation of detail, inspired by lunar retrograding – believed to turn our energy inward, sparking a heightened sense of consciousness. The black and white palette inspired by the Seine at night, a dance of shadows and moonlit reflections, encapsulates the essence of Parisian elegance, as if painted onto the garments.
Subtle nods to the whimsical and fantastical world of gothic elegance and steampunk aesthetics weave through the collection. Galliano introduces groundbreaking techniques like seamlace and rétrécirage, pushing the boundaries of haute couture with seamless lace garments and strategically shrunken tweed, forming anatomical and coquettish shapes. Stripe-tease, gouttoir-coating, and Rorschach dotting add layers of intrigue to pattern creation in doll-like accents. The models, with their meticulously crafted porcelain faces by Path MacGrath blur the boundary between reality and artistry, enhancing the surreal atmosphere of the collection.
The collection unfolds as a study of the intimate relationship between artists and their creations. Christian Louboutin’s iconic red-soled shoes, sculpted with augmented heel caps and platforms, complement the collection’s form language, contributing to its overall make-believe quality, and notwithstanding elegance. Galliano’s unwavering commitment to pushing haute couture boundaries is evident in the diligent craftsmanship, taking shape over twelve months in Maison Margiela’s ateliers.
Maison Margiela’s 2024 Artisanal Collection stands as a testament to the boundless creativity and visionary spirit of John Galliano. Infused with the suggestions of fantastical worlds, the collection, a poetic study of the muse-artist relationship and the subsequent ritual of dressing, encapsulates the essence of unconscious gestures and the fragility of attention.
To keep up with Paris Couture, explore more articles on fashion.
