New York Fashion Week has long been a stage for reinvention, and the NYFW Fall/Winter 2025 season proved no different. This year, a sense of restraint and refinement took centre stage, with designers embracing a return to minimalism, impeccable tailoring, and a quiet confidence that felt like a reaction to the maximalist trends of past seasons. While statement-making moments were still presentโthis was NYFW Fall/Winter after allโthe overall mood was one of considered elegance, where craftsmanship and materiality spoke louder than spectacle.
From the much-anticipated reboot of Calvin Klein under Veronica Leoniโs direction to Sergio Hudsonโs masterclass in the modern American sportswear, the runways balanced nostalgia with forward-thinking design. Emerging names like Jane Wade and Collina Strada pushed the conversation further, proving that New York remains a breeding ground for fresh perspectives.
Beyond the collections, the front rows buzzed with celebrity sightings, and the streets of New York once again became an extension of the runway, with attendees serving looks that mirrored the seasonโs key trends. As the fashion world moves toward a more intentional approach to design, this NYFW underscored a shiftโone that favours longevity over fleeting moments.
Here are some of our highlights from NYFW Fall/Winter 2025:
KHAITE
Khaiteโs (Instagram) Fall/Winter 2025 collection was an ode to the effortlessly cool downtown girlโwhether sheโs a true New Yorker or just mastering the attitude. Inspired by David Lynchโs (Forever RIP) moody cinematic universe, Catherine Holstein delivered a collection steeped in mystery and understated sensuality, where sharp tailoring met slinky, lived-in textures. The beauty look, crafted by Diane Kendal and Guido Palau, embraced a shift away from the high-shine era, favouring soft matte skin with cool-toned contours and an occasional painterly stroke of black on the lids. Hair was intentionally undone, tousled with natural grit, while a handful of models sported newsboy caps, adding to the insouciant, borrowed-from-the-boys allure. As always, Khaiteโs woman walks fast, looks sharp, and doesnโt wait for anyone to catch up.
Marc Jacobs
Marc Jacobs (Instagram) has always been a designer who thrives on contradictionโserious yet playful, rebellious yet refined, nostalgic yet utterly modern. His latest collection, unveiled at the New York Public Library, was a grand exercise in taking up space, with exaggerated silhouettes that demanded attention. Puffed-up trousers, ballooning skirts, and bulbous ball gowns transformed models into living sculptures, striding through a setting built on the power of creative expression. The collection nodded to Rei Kawakuboโs radical shapes while remaining unmistakably Jacobsโbold, ironic, and utterly fearless. In a world that often demands we shrink ourselves, Jacobs instead makes a case for audacious, unapologetic fashion.
Calvin Klein
Veronica Leoniโs debut at Calvin Klein (Instagram) was a celebration of New Yorkโnot the real city, but the one that exists in collective imagination. Her collection revived the houseโs signature โ90s minimalism with a sharp, modern edge, balancing corporate polish with insouciant sex appeal. Rounded-shoulder suits, ethereal white blazer dresses, and sculptural eveningwear redefined โclothes for life, 24/7.โ As Calvin Kleinโs first female creative director, Leoni took on the challenge with confidence, blending archival nods with fresh perspective. The result? A sleek, sophisticated reawakeningโone that even Klein himself approved of, coat in hand.
Thom Browne
Thom Browneโs Fall 2025 collection, inspired by birdwatching, brought whimsical fantasy to New York Fashion Week with a mix of conceptual and classic tailoring. The runway featured ornithologists in Browneโs parkas, observing rare “runway delights” in checkered fabrics and custom herringbone. Exaggerated proportions and whimsical details like suede elbow patches and intarsia birds created an artistic spectacle, while simpler, more wearable pieces added balance. The collection also included trompe-l’ลil dresses and pleated silk gowns, showcasing Browne’s love for intricate craftsmanship. The finale featured a gold-embroidered jacket and sweeping tweed ball skirt, underscoring Browneโs message of staying true to oneโs creative vision.
Tory Burchโs Fall 2025 collection embraced American sportswear with a twist, blending practicality and creativity. She reimagined classic pieces, like unfinished shirt seams and leather jackets with innovative pockets. Velvet pants woven with metal and hourglass dresses with off-shoulder necklines added a playful edge. A standout was the padded nylon coat cinched at the waist with oversized stick pins. The showโs soundtrack reinforced the experimental, yet wearable, nature of the collection.
Sergio Hudson
Sergio Hudsonโs (Instagram) Fall 2025 collection was a love letter to classic American sportswear, reimagined with his signature polish and flair. Citing icons like Donna Karan, Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, and Michael Kors, Hudson set out to revive the excitement of layered, sophisticated dressing. The show culminated in a familiar but always thrilling finaleโsupermodel Veronica Webb closing the runway in undeniable style. With sharp tailoring, effortless glamour, and a nod to fashionโs golden era, Hudson reminded us why timeless American design still captivates.
Jane Wade
For Fall 2025, Jane Wade (Instagram) turned the corporate office into her creative playground, exploring the chilling reality of employer-sponsored surveillance culture. In a clever and slightly unsettling twist, Wade sent models down the runway filming the audience on their phones, highlighting the invasion of privacy in the modern workplace. With her signature world-building flair, she imagined a scenario where her independent company is absorbed by a faceless corporate giant, capturing the loss of identity and soul. Wadeโs take on corporate life was both dystopian and humorous, reflecting on the thin line between productivity and control in todayโs work environment.
Collina Strada
Hillary Taymourโs Collina Strada (Instagram) Fall/Winter 2025 collection, titled Fempire, redefines femininity, blending past legacies with a bold future. The show, set in a Chelsea studio, opened with children playing in mini Collina clothes, before diving into a presentation that celebrated fluidity, queerness, and inclusive power. Taymour sourced heirloom wedding dresses from New Jersey thrift stores, reimagining them with a contemporary twist, while two brides shared a wedding kiss mid-runway. The collection combined classic fabrics with more industrial textures, emphasizing movement and elegance through layered and draped silhouettes. With pieces like the “Pillow Coat” and alien-esque eyewear, the show embodied the rebellious spirit of a world where femininity is not a set of rules, but a dynamic, ever-evolving expression.
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