Demna Gvasalia’s time at Balenciaga has become synonymous with breaking rules. The designer has subverted the norms of fashion and runways and, after Balenciaga’s Summer 2023 show over the weekend, continues to deliver headline-grabbing shows.
But this show was different. Where Balenciaga previously utilised face coverings, this show was more about personality. “One needs to have courage and persistence to truly assume their identity and who they are,” Demna said in the show notes. The show was exactly that, it was about assuming your identity, about unearthing the truth. Amid the mud set, a metaphor for digging for the truth.
Demna’s friend and collaborator Ye opened the show, dressed in full security gear, while models followed in dressed ranging from sporty neck hanging pieces to pleated numbers that dragged through the mud.
The show was about strength, an inner power, where men carried newborns on carry-ons. The collection included boxy hoodies and culottes, graffiti pieces, sleeve bags, skirts, and fanny packs.
The collection was complete with post-apocalyptic reaper dresses. Statement jewellery came in the form of glittering Dutch clogs, and Lays chip bags as handbags. Baby dolls that looked uncannily real dripped in Balenciaga onesies.
“I’ve decided to no longer explain my collections and verbalise my designs, but to express a state of mind,” Demna said. “Fashion is a visual art and all we need is for it to be seen through someone’s eyes. Fashion in its best-case scenario should not need a story to be sold to someone. You either like it or not.”
This show was Demna’s, and the designer is now doing things his way. The designer said the collection was, “very me in terms of references, looks and silhouettes.” There weren’t many references or in common with Cristobal’s Balenciaga apart from the puffy leather bags that were shaped like a muff.
